Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
Landing from time to time when the boat was close in shore, we found the
order of planting everywhere the same, lupins and lentils on the slope
against the water-line; an uninterrupted grove of palms on the edge of
the bank; in the space beyond, fields of cotton and young corn; and then
the desert. The arable soil was divided off, as usual, by hundreds of
water channels, and seemed to be excellently farmed as well as
abundantly irrigated. Not a weed was to be seen; not an inch of soil
appeared to be wasted. In odd corners where there was room for nothing
else, cucumbers and vegetable-marrows flourished and bore fruit. Nowhere
had we seen castor-berries so large, cotton-pods so full, or palms so
lofty.
Here also, for the first time out of Egypt, we observed among the bushes
a few hoopoes and other small birds; and on a sand-slope down by the
river a group of wild ducks. We--that is to say, one of the M. B.’s and
the writer--had wandered off that way in search of crocodiles. The two
dahabeeyahs, each with its file of trackers, were slowly laboring up
against the current about a mile away. All was intensely hot and
intensely silent. We had walked far and had seen no crocodile. What we
should have done if we had met one I am not prepared to say. Perhaps we
should have run away. At all events, we were just about to turn back
when we caught sight of the ducks sunning themselves, half asleep, on
the brink of a tiny pool about an eighth of a mile away.
Creeping cautiously under the bank, we contrived to get within a few
yards of them. They were four--a drake, a duck, and two young
ones--exquisitely feathered and as small as teal. The parent-birds could
scarcely have measured more than eight inches from head to tail. All
alike had chestnut-colored heads with a narrow buff stripe down the
middle, like a parting; maroon backs; wing-feathers maroon and gray; and
tails tipped with buff. They were so pretty, and the little family party
was so complete, that the writer could not help secretly rejoicing that
Alfred and his gun were safe on board the Bagstones.
High above the Libyan bank on the sloping verge of the desert, stands,
half-drowned in sand, the little temple of Amada. Seeing it from the
opposite side while duck-hunting in the morning, I had taken it for one
of the many stone shelters erected by Mohammed Ali for the
accommodation of cattle levied annually in the Soudan. It proved,
however, to be a temple, small but massive; built with squared blocks of
sandstone; and dating back to the very old times of the Usurtesens and
Thothmes. It consists of a portico, a transverse atrium, and three small
chambers. The pillars of the portico are mere square piers. The rooms
are small and low. The roof, constructed of oblong blocks, is flat from
end to end. As an architectural structure it is in fact but a few
degrees removed from Stonehenge.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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