Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
Seen from within, however, the place is not without a kind of gloomy
grandeur. Two rows of square columns, three at each side, divide the
large hall into a nave and two aisles. This hall is about forty feet
square, and the pillars have been left standing in the living rock, like
those in the early tombs at Siût. The daylight, half-blocked out by the
fallen portico, is pleasantly subdued, and finds its way dimly to the
sanctuary at the farther end. The sculptures of the interior, though
much damaged, are less defaced than those of the outer court. Walls,
pillars, doorways, are covered with bas-reliefs. The king and Ptah, the
king and Ra, the king and Amen, stand face to face, hand in hand, on
each of the four sides of every column. Scenes of worship, of slaughter,
of anointing, cover the walls; and the blank spaces are filled in as
usual with hieroglyphic inscriptions. Among these Champollion discovered
an imperfect list of the sons and daughters of Rameses II. Four gods
once sat enthroned at the upper end of the sanctuary; but they have
shared the fate of the colossi outside and only their feet remain. The
wall sculptures of this dark little chamber are, however, better
preserved, and better worth preservation, than those of the hall. A
procession of priests, bearing on their shoulders the bari, or sacred
boat, is quite unharmed; and even the color is yet fresh upon a
full-length figure of Hathor close by.
But more interesting than all these--more interesting because more
rare--is a sculptured palm-tree against which the king leans while
making an offering to Amen Ra. The trunk is given with elaborate
truthfulness; and the branches, though formalized, are correct and
graceful in curvature. The tree is but an accessory. It may have been
introduced with reference to the date-harvests which are the wealth of
the district; but it has no kind of sacred significance, and is
noticeable only for the naturalness of the treatment. Such naturalness
is unusual in the art of this period, when the conventional persea and
the equally conventional lotus are almost the only vegetable forms which
appear on the walls of the temples. I can recall, indeed, but one
similar instance in the bas-relief sculpture of the new empire--namely,
the bent, broken and waving bulrushes in the great lion-hunting scene at
Medinet Habu, which are admirably free and studied, apparently, from
nature.
Coming out, we looked in vain along the court-yard walls for the
battle-scene in which Champollion was yet able to trace the famous
fighting lion of Rameses II with the legend describing him as “the
servant of his majesty rending his foes in pieces.” But that was
forty-five years ago. Now it is with difficulty that one detects a few
vague outlines of chariot-wheels and horses.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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