Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
For some way beyond Abou Simbel, the western bank is fringed by a long
line of volcanic mountains, as much alike in height, size, and shape, as
a row of martello towers. They are divided from one another by a series
of perfectly uniform sand-drifts; while on the rounded top of each
mountain, thick as the currants on the top of a certain cake, known to
schoolboys by the endearing name of “black-caps,” lies a layer of the
oddest black stones in the world. Having more than once been to the top
of the rock of Abshek (which is the first large mountain of the chain,
and strewn in the same way) we recognized the stones, and knew what they
were like. In color they are purplish black, tinged here and there with
dull red. They ring like clinkstone when struck, and in shape are most
fantastic. L---- picked up some like petrified bunches of grapes. Others
are twisted and writhen like the Vesuvian lava of 1871. They lie loose
upon the surface, and are of all sizes; some being as small as currants,
and others as large as quartern loaves. Speaking as one having no kind
of authority, I should say that these stones are unquestionably of fiery
parentage. One seems to see how, boiling and bubbling in a state of
fusion, they must have been suddenly checked by contact with some cooler
medium.
Where the chain ends, about three or four miles above Abou Simbel, the
view widens, and a host of outlying mountains are seen scattered over an
immense plain reaching for miles into the western desert. On the eastern
bank, Kalat Adda,[122] a huge, rambling Roman citadel, going to solitary
ruin on the last water-washed precipice to the left--brings the opposite
range to a like end, and abuts on a similar plain, also scattered over
with detached peaks. The scene here is desolately magnificent. A large
island covered with palms divides the Nile in two branches, each of
which looks as wide as the whole river. An unbounded distance opens away
to the silvery horizon. On the banks there is no verdure; neither is
there any sign of human toil. Nothing lives, nothing moves, save the
wind and the river.
Of all the strange peaks we have yet seen, the mountains hereabout are
the strangest. Alone or in groups, they start up here and there from
the desert, on both sides, like the pieces on a chess-board. They are
for the most part conical; but they are not extinct craters, such as are
the volcanic cones of Korosko and Dakkeh. Seeing how they all rose to
about the same height and were alike capped with that mysterious
_couche_ of shining black stones, the writer could not help fancying
that, like the isolated Rocher de Corneille and Rocher de St. Michael at
Puy, they might be but fragments of a rocky crust, rent and swept away
at some infinitely remote period of the world’s history, and that the
level of their present summits might represent perhaps the ancient level
of the plain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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