Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
To follow the messenger at once to the scene of action was the general
impulse. In less than ten minutes we were there, asking breathless
questions, peeping in through the fast-widening aperture and helping to
clear away the sand.
All that Sunday afternoon, heedless of possible sunstroke, unconscious
of fatigue, we toiled upon our hands and knees, as for bare life, under
the burning sun. We had all the crew up, working like tigers. Every one
helped; even the dragoman and the two maids. More than once, when we
paused for a moment’s breathing-space, we said to each other: “If those
at home could see us what would they say?”
And now, more than ever, we felt the need of implements. With a spade or
two and a wheelbarrow we could have done wonders; but with only one
small fire-shovel, a birch broom, a couple of charcoal baskets, and
about twenty pairs of hands, we were poor indeed. What was wanted in
means, however, was made up in method. Some scraped away the sand; some
gathered it into baskets; some carried the baskets to the edge of the
cliff and emptied them into the river. The idle man distinguished
himself by scooping out a channel where the slope was steepest; which
greatly facilitated the work. Emptied down this chute and kept
continually going, the sand poured off in a steady stream like water.
Meanwhile the opening grew rapidly larger. When we first came up--that
is, when the painter and the two sailors had been working on it for
about an hour--we found a hole scarcely as large as one’s hand, through
which it was just possible to catch a dim glimpse of painted walls
within. By sunset the top of the doorway was laid bare, and where the
crack ended in a large triangular fracture there was an aperture about a
foot and a half square, into which Mehemet Ali was the first to squeeze
his way. We passed him in a candle and a box of matches; but he came out
again directly, saying that it was a most beautiful _birbeh_, and quite
light within.
The writer wriggled in next. She found herself looking down from the top
of a sand-slope into a small square chamber. This sand-drift, which here
rose to within a foot and a half of the top of the doorway, was heaped
to the ceiling in the corner behind the door, and thence sloped steeply
down, completely covering the floor. There was light enough to see every
detail distinctly--the painted frieze running round just under the
ceiling; the bas-relief sculptures on the walls, gorgeous with unfaded
color; the smooth sand, pitted near the top, where Mehemet Ali had
trodden, but undisturbed elsewhere by human foot; the great gap in the
middle of the ceiling, where the rock had given way; the fallen
fragments on the floor, now almost buried in sand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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