Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
We observe more foundations built thus at Tafah, where we arrive next
morning. As the mason’s work at Tafah is of late Roman date, it follows
that earthquakes were yet frequent in Nubia at a period long subsequent
to the great shock of B.C. 27, mentioned by Eusebius. Travelers are too
ready to ascribe everything in the way of ruin to the fury of Cambyses
and the pious rage of the early Christians. Nothing, however, is easier
than to distinguish between the damage done to the monuments by the hand
of man and the damage caused by subterraneous upheaval. Mutilation is
the rule in the one case; displacement in the other. At Denderah, for
example, the injury done is wholly willful; at Abou Simbel it is wholly
accidental; at Karnak it is both willful and accidental. As for
Kalabsheh, it is clear that no such tremendous havoc could have been
effected by human means without the aid of powerful rams, fire, or
gunpowder; any of which must have left unmistakable traces.
At Tafah there are two little temples; one in picturesque ruin, one
quite perfect, and now used as a stable. There are also a number of
stone foundations, separate, quadrangular, subdivided into numerous
small chambers, and inclosed in boundary walls, some of which are built
in the concave courses just named. These sub-structions, of which the
painter counted eighteen, have long been the puzzle of travelers.[171]
Tafah is charmingly placed; and the seven miles which divide it from
Kalabsheh--once, no doubt, the scene of a cataract--are perhaps the most
picturesque on this side of Wady Halfeh. Rocky islets in the river;
palm groves, acacias, carobs, henna and castor-berry bushes and all
kinds of flowering shrubs, along the edges of the banks; fantastic
precipices riven and pinnacled, here rising abruptly from the water’s
edge and there from the sandy plain, make lovely sketches whichever way
one turns. There are gazelles, it is said, in the ravines behind Tafah;
and one of the natives--a truculent fellow in ragged shirt and dirty
white turban--tells how, at a distance of three hours up a certain glen,
there is another birbeh, larger than either of these, in the plain and a
great standing statue taller than three men. Here, then, if the tale be
true, is another ready-made discovery for whoever may care to undertake
it.
This same native, having sold a necklace to the idle man and gone away
content with his bargain, comes back by and by with half the village at
his heels, requiring double price. This modest demand being refused, he
rages up and down like a maniac; tears off his turban; goes through a
wild manual exercise with his spear; then sits down in stately silence,
with his friends and neighbors drawn up in a semicircle behind him.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account