Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
It chanced to be market-day; so we saw Minieh under its best aspect,
than which nothing could well be more squalid, dreary, and depressing.
It was like a town dropped unexpectedly into the midst of a plowed
field; the streets being mere trodden lanes of mud dust, and the houses
a succession of windowless mud prisons with their backs to the
thoroughfare. The bazaar, which consists of two or three lanes a little
wider than the rest, is roofed over here and there with rotting
palm-rafters and bits of tattered matting; while the market is held in a
space of waste ground outside the town. The former, with its little
cupboard-like shops, in which the merchants sit cross-legged like
shabby old idols in shabby old shrines--the ill-furnished shelves--the
familiar Manchester goods--the gaudy native stuffs--the old red saddles
and faded rugs hanging up for sale--the smart Greek stores where Bass’
ale, claret, curaçoa, Cyprus, Vermouth, cheese, pickles, sardines,
Worcester sauce, blacking, biscuits, preserved meats, candles, cigars,
matches, sugar, salt, stationery, fire-works, jams, and patent medicines
can all be bought at one fell swoop--the native cook’s shop exhaling
savory perfumes of Kebabs and lentil soup, and presided over by an
Abyssinian Soyer blacker than the blackest historical personage ever was
painted--the surging, elbowing, clamorous crowd--the donkeys, the
camels, the street-cries, the chatter, the dust, the flies, the fleas,
and the dogs, all put us in mind of the poorer quarters of Cairo. In the
market it is even worse. Here are hundreds of country folk sitting on
the ground behind their baskets of fruits and vegetables. Some have
eggs, butter, and buffalo-cream for sale, while others sell sugar-canes,
limes, cabbages, tobacco, barley, dried lentils, split beans, maize,
wheat, and dura. The women go to and fro with bouquets of live poultry.
The chickens scream; the sellers rave; the buyers bargain at the top of
their voices; the dust flies in clouds; the sun pours down floods of
light and heat; you can scarcely hear yourself speak; and the crowd is
as dense as that other crowd which at this very moment, on this very
Christmas eve, is circulating among the alleys of Leadenhall Market.
The things were very cheap. A hundred eggs cost about fourteen pence in
English money; chickens sold for five pence each; pigeons from two-pence
to two-pence-half-penny; and fine live geese for two shillings a head.
The turkeys, however, which were large and excellent, were priced as
high as three-and-sixpence; being about half as much as one pays in
Middle and Upper Egypt for a lamb. A good sheep may be bought for
sixteen shillings or a pound. The M. B.’s, who had no dragoman and did
their own marketing, were very busy here, laying in stores of fresh
provision, bargaining fluently in Arabic, and escorted by a body-guard
of sailors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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