Egypt -- Description and travel; Egypt -- History -- 19th century; Nile River -- Description and travel
And now the banks are lovely with an unwonted wealth of verdure. The
young corn clothes the plain like a carpet, while the yellow-tasseled
mimosa, the feathery tamarisk, the dôm and date palm, and spreading
sycamore-fig, border the towing-path like garden trees beside a garden
walk.
Farther on still, when all this greenery is left behind and the banks
have again become flat and bare, we see to our exceeding surprise what
seems to be a very large grizzled ape perched on the top of a dust-heap
on the western bank. The creature is evidently quite tame, and sits on
its haunches in just that chilly, melancholy posture that the chimpanzee
is wont to assume in his cage at the Zoological Gardens. Some six or
eight Arabs, one of whom has dismounted from his camel for the purpose,
are standing round and staring at him, much as the British public stand
and stare at the specimen in the Regent’s Park. Meanwhile a strange
excitement breaks out among our crew. They crowd to the side; they
shout; they gesticulate; the captain salaams; the steersman waves his
hand; all eyes are turned toward the shore.
“Do you see Sheik Selîm?” cries Talhamy, breathlessly, rushing up from
below. “There he is! Look at him! That is Sheik Selîm!”
And so we find out that it is not a monkey but a man--and not only a
man, but a saint. Holiest of the holy, dirtiest of the dirty,
white-pated, white-bearded, withered, bent, and knotted up, is the
renowned Sheik Selîm--he who, naked and unwashed, has sat on that same
spot every day through summer heat and winter cold for the last fifty
years; never providing himself with food or water; never even lifting
his hand to his mouth; depending on charity not only for his food but
for his feeding! He is not nice to look at, even by this dim light, and
at this distance; but the sailors think him quite beautiful, and call
aloud to him for his blessing as we go by.
“It is not by our own will that we sail past, O father!” they cry. “Fain
would we kiss thy hand; but the wind blows and the mérkeb (boat) goes,
and we have no power to stay!”
But Sheik Selîm neither lifts his head nor shows any sign of hearing,
and in a few minutes the mound on which he sits is left behind in the
gloaming.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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