The tables of people of fortune are very plentifully spread; many
elegantly, differing in nothing from those of England. I think I
remarked that venison wants the flavour it has with us, probably for the
same reason, that the produce of rich parks is never equal to that of
poor ones; the moisture of the climate, and the richness of the soil,
give fat but not flavour. Another reason is the smallness of the parks,
a man who has three or four thousand acres in his hands, has not perhaps
above three or four hundred in his deer-park, and range is a great point
for good venison. Nor do I think that garden vegetables have the flavour
found in those of England, certainly owing to the climate; green peas I
found everywhere perfectly insipid, and lettuce, etc., not good. Claret
is the common wine of all tables, and so much inferior to what is drunk
in England, that it does not appear to be the same wine; but their port
is incomparable, so much better than the English, as to prove, if proof
was wanting, the abominable adulterations it must undergo with us.
Drinking and duelling are two charges which have long been alleged
against the gentlemen of Ireland, but the change of manners which has
taken place in that kingdom is not generally known in England.
Drunkenness ought no longer to be a reproach, for at every table I was at
in Ireland I saw a perfect freedom reign, every person drank just as
little as they pleased, nor have I ever been asked to drink a single
glass more than I had an inclination for; I may go farther and assert
that hard drinking is very rare among people of fortune; yet it is
certain that they sit much longer at table than in England. I was much
surprised at first going over to find no summons to coffee, the company
often sitting till eight, nine, or ten o'clock before they went to the
ladies. If a gentleman likes tea or coffee, he retires without saying
anything; a stranger of rank may propose it to the master of the house,
who from custom contrary to that of England, will not stir till he
receives such a hint, as they think it would imply a desire to save their
wine. If the gentlemen were generally desirous of tea, I take it for
granted they would have it, but their slighting is one inconvenience to
such as desire it, not knowing when it is provided, conversation may
carry them beyond the time, and then if they do trifle over the coffee it
will certainly be cold. There is a want of attention in this, which the
ladies should remedy, if they will not break the old custom and send to
the gentlemen, which is what they ought to do, they certainly should have
a salver fresh. I must, however, remark, that at the politest tables,
which are those of people who have resided much out of Ireland, this
point is conducted exactly as it is in England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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