It is a very singular demesne; a stripe of very beautiful ground,
reaching two miles along the banks of the river, which forms his fence on
one side, with a wall on the other. There is so much wood as to render
it very pleasing; adding to every day by planting all the fences made or
repaired. From several little hills, which rise in different parts of
it, extensive views of the river are commanded quite to Portumna; but
these are much eclipsed by that from the top of the hill above the slate
quarry. From thence you see the river for at least forty miles, from
Portumna to twenty miles beyond Limerick. It has the appearance of a
fine basin, two miles over, into which three great rivers lead, being the
north and south course and the Bay of Sheriff. The reaches of it one
beyond another to Portumna are fine. At the foot of the mountain Mr.
Head's demesne extends in a shore of rich woodland.
October 7. Took my leave of Mr. Head, after passing four days very
agreeably. Through Killaloe, over the Shannon, a very long bridge of
many arches; went out of the road to see a fall of that river at Castle
Connel, where there is such an accompaniment of wood as to form a very
pleasing scenery. The river takes a very rapid rocky course around a
projecting rock, on which a gentleman has built a summer-house, and
formed a terrace: it is a striking spot. To Limerick. Laid at Bennis's,
the first inn we had slept in from Dublin. God preserve us this journey
from another!
It is not uncommon, especially in mountainous countries, to find objects
that much deserve the attention of travellers entirely neglected by them.
There are a few instances of this upon Lord Kingsborough's estate, in the
neighbourhood of Mitchelstown. The first I shall mention is a cave at
Skeheenrinky, on the road between Cahir and that place. The opening to
it is a cleft of rock in a limestone hill, so narrow as to be difficult
to get into it. I descended by a ladder of about twenty steps, and then
found myself in a vault of a hundred feet long, and fifty or sixty high.
A small hole on the left leads from this a winding course of I believe
not less than half an Irish mile, exhibiting a variety that struck me
much. In some places the cavity in the rock is so large that when well
lighted up by candles (not flambeaux; Lord Kingsborough once showed it me
with them, and we found their smoke troublesome) it takes the appearance
of a vaulted cathedral, supported by massy columns. The walls, ceiling,
floor, and pillars, are by turns composed of every fantastic form; and
often of very beautiful incrustations of spar, some of which glitters so
much that it seems powdered with diamonds; and in others the ceiling is
formed of that sort which has so near a resemblance to a cauliflower.
The spar formed into columns by the dropping of water has taken some very
regular forms; but others are different, folded in plaits of light
drapery, which hang from their support in a very pleasing manner.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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