A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
gentleman, the novelty and gaudy colouring of which served to animate
the sombre appearance of the forest behind.
In the evening we reached the principal inn at Soestdyke, lying at the
end of a very long avenue in the forest, chiefly filled with young oaks,
a little fatigued with the tedium produced by the heavy roads through
which we had waded; however, after some refreshing tea taken under the
trees, near the house, we proceeded to view the palace, formerly a
favourite sporting chateau of the Orange family. A tolerable plain brick
house on the left of the entrance, composed the lodge, and after passing
through a large court, we ascended by a flight of steps to the principal
entrance of this palace, if palace it may be called, for a residence
more unworthy of a prince I have never seen. The only part of the house
in any degree deserving of notice was the hall, the sides of which were
decorated with the emblems of rural recreation, the implements of
husbandry, and all the apparatus of hunting, fishing, and shooting,
tolerably well executed. The rooms were principally white-washed, and
destitute of furniture: the windows were large, and the panes of glass
very small, fastened with lead, such as are used in cottages: in short,
the whole palace presented the appearance of a country mansion in
England of the date of Charles the First, deserted by the family to whom
it belonged, and left to the care of the tenants who rent the estate to
which it belongs. Nothing could be more dreary and desolate. The king
and queen partook of a cold collation here a short time before I visited
it, provided by the family who rented the place of the state, and
occupied it when we visited it. I was not surprised to hear that the
royal family staid only one hour, during which they scarcely ventured
out of a large naked room at the back part of the house, called the
grand saloon: one of the young princes gave a son of the gentleman who
occupied the premises, an elegant watch set round with brilliants. I
could not help reflecting a little upon the disgust this visit must have
given to the queen, who had just arrived from Paris, and from all the
voluptuous and tasteful magnificence of the new imperial court. The
palace is surrounded by a ditch half filled with green stagnant water,
the dulness of which was only relieved by the croaking of a legion of
undisturbed frogs. The gardens and grounds, which abounded with hares,
are very formally disposed into dull, unshaded, geometrical walks. After
supper, a brilliant moon and cloudless night, attracted us into one of
the most beautiful and majestic avenues of beeches I ever saw,
immediately opposite the palace: as we sat upon a bench, looking through
an opening upon the bright bespangled heavens, the description of our
divine bard stole upon my mind:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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