A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
The ruins of the palace have a melancholy appearance from the water, on
which I made a sketch of the city, when I saw for the first time one of
the Rhenish flying bridges, the description of which I shall reserve for
a few pages following, as I did not go on board of it. That famous
gallery, which attracted men of taste from distant parts of Europe,
occupied that part of the palace which stood close to the junction of
the Rhine and the Dussel, and was divided into five very large and
spacious apartments, one of which was wholly devoted to one picture of
Gerard Douw, esteemed inestimable, and one of the finest he ever
painted; the subject of it is uncommonly complicated, yet every figure
in it is so exquisitely finished, that it will bear the closest
inspection. Descriptions of paintings are seldom very interesting; but
the subject of this renowned picture deserves to be recorded. It
represented a quack-doctor at a fair, upon his stage covered with a
Turkey carpet, set out with vials and gallipots, a shaving bason, an
umbrella, and a monkey: the doctor, in the most whimsical dress, is
haranguing with uncommon humour and cunning in his countenance, the
motley crowd below; amongst whom, a gardener wheeling a barrow filled
with vegetables, a countryman with a hare hanging over his shoulders, a
woman with a child at the breast, baking little cakes for the fair;
another woman listening with ardent credulity, whilst a sharper is
picking her pocket, are penciled in a wonderful manner. Douw has
represented himself looking out of the window of a public house, and
drawing the several objects. The second chamber contained the
productions of the Italian school; a third those of the Flemish: a
fourth was dedicated to Vanderwerff; and the fifth to Rubens.
The only part of the city which presented any appearance of animation
was the market-place, which abounded with fine vegetables, and exquisite
fruit. The market-women, and the female peasants, wear a large
handkerchief depending from the top of the head, which has a picturesque
effect. Fruit is so abundant that for the value of 3_d._ I purchased a
pound and a half of the most luscious grapes. In this square, part of
the scaffolding used for illuminating the hotel de ville, on the grand
duke making his first entry into the city, remained. About a mile from
the town is a country palace of the prince, separated from a garden, in
front of it, by the great road to Cologne. The palace is large, and very
elegantly furnished; the gardens are spacious, well kept, and open to
well-dressed persons. The view of the city from these walks is very
beautiful. The ramparts, which are levelling as fast as the pickaxe and
spade can lay them low, in many places present a very agreeable walk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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