A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
In consequence of having been informed the preceding evening that an
imperial decree had passed, by which strangers entering the French
empire were permitted to bring as much money into it as they chose, but
were not suffered to take out of it more than what certain officers
appointed for that purpose considered necessary for the prosecution of
their journey, the surplus passing in the nature of a forfeiture to the
crown, I concealed about thirty ducats, which fell within this
description of overplus, in my cravat, and at five o’clock in the
morning, marched from my hotel to the bureau des diligences par eau, a
distance full two English miles, to be searched for this superfluity of
cash, previous to my ascending the Rhine. At this house a scene took
place which perhaps has not often occurred to travellers, in consequence
of the temporary apprehension which it excited, the ridiculous situation
in which it placed me, and the retributive chastisement which it
inflicted for thus venturing upon an hostile shore. I was introduced
into a room looking upon the Rhine; at the bureau sat the Director, a
man who wore spectacles, with a strongly marked, expressive countenance,
apparently about fifty years of age; upon my bowing to him he demanded
of me, in German, who I was? I requested him to address me in French,
which he did, repeating the question. I told him I was an American going
to the Francfort fair, upon which he put down his spectacles, and
running up to me, squeezed my hand with a violence of compression
infinitely more painful than agreeable, and exclaimed in very good
English, “How happy is this day to me! for I too am an American.” I was
obliged to return the affectionate salutation, and also to express my
delight in having, so far from our native home, met with a countryman.
He then asked me from what part of America I came? “From Baltimore,” was
the answer. “Happier and happier!” cried he renewing his embrace, “for I
was born there too.” At this moment I wished, for the first time in my
life, all the force of the _amor patriæ_ at the devil; but there was no
time to be lost in meditating upon the peril and awkwardness of my
situation. To prevent, as much as possible his interrogating me further
about my adopted country, I addressed with all possible fluency, as many
questions as I could suggest respecting Cologne, the Rhine, the war; in
short, I touched upon every subject but what had an American tendency.
To my observations he bowed, to my questions he gave very brief answers,
and continued expressing his delight in seeing me, a delight which was
very far from being reciprocal. After ordering his servants to bring
breakfast for me, which I did not decline, although I had already taken
that meal at my hotel, for fear of offending him, he made many inquiries
after some persons whom he named, and mentioned to be of the first
consequence in Baltimore. I gave him to understand that I had left the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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