A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
I know not whether my life was in peril, but it is certain my liberty
was, and to preserve it, I thought that something should be immediately
done; accordingly I ascended the top of the cabin, where all the
passengers were assembled in a state of considerable uneasiness, from
one of whom I borrowed a bottle of brandy and a coffee-cup, with which I
returned to the director, and insisted upon drinking his health in some
excellent spirit, and raising my hand and the bottle in a manner which,
in his state, prevented him from seeing what I poured out, I affected to
fill and drink it off; I then gave him a bumper, which I several times
repeated in a similar manner, until the miscreant dropped under the
table, where he continued in a state of utter insensibility, and with
little appearance of life, until we arrived, which we did in about six
hours, at Bonn, when he was taken out of the vessel by some men,
conveyed to a house near the banks of the river, and, thank heaven! I
saw no more of him, but proceeded with the rest of the passengers to a
very neat inn a little way in the city, where we had an excellent dinner
and some good white Rhine wine. The stream of the Rhine became less
rapid as we approached Bonn, where its waters are shallower than in the
neighbourhood of Cologne, where all large vessels ship their cargoes
which are destined for any of the towns higher up, into craft
constructed peculiarly for the purpose, and which draw much less water.
As I determined to sleep at Bonn, I had a favourable opportunity of
seeing this beautiful little city, which enabled the former Electors of
Cologne to display their taste by selecting it for their residence. It
was elegantly and justly observed by a French lady on board of the boat
as we approached the city, _Voilà Bonne! c’est une petite perle!_ no
expression could describe it better; when I made my view of it, the dark
clouds behind it set off the pearl-like appearance of the palace and
buildings. I saw no spot on the Rhine in the shape of a town with which
I was so much delighted; it consisted of little more than 1000 houses
and 8000 inhabitants. In the neighbourhood the country begins to
undulate, and the vines make a luxuriant appearance. The wine made here
and in the adjacent parts is tolerably good; that which grows upon the
black basalt hills, further to the southward, is infinitely preferable,
black being a powerful agent to attract and retain heat; hence the rents
of hills are rather high. So powerful is this colour in attracting and
retaining the heat, that a very intelligent friend of mine, who resided
for some time in China, informed me, that for the purpose of ripening
their fruits as early as possible, the Chinese gardeners paint their
garden walls black, and lately in some parts of England this plan has
been followed. Everything in and about the city bears testimony to the
enlightened liberality and refined taste of the last of the Electors of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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