A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
Through a beautiful and romantic country, by a short walk a little
beyond Gruizberg, towards the south, is the picturesque hill of
Godesberg, or Godshill, so called from a sanative mineral spring flowing
close to it, which contains fixed air, iron, magnesia, and salt: the
last Elector who never omitted any thing which could add to the comfort
and happiness of his people, erected an assembly and other rooms, and
also pleasure gardens for recreation close to the spring, and by some
very wise regulations, encouraged the building of lodging-houses. At
this place, many of the unhappy French emigrants, after the revolution,
found a little relief from the miserable recollections of their fallen
fortunes and altered fate: the court of the prince bishop was remarkable
for the elegance, hospitality, and refined freedom which reigned
throughout it, and in return in every visitor he beheld a friend. The
influence of this scene of courtly felicity upon the manners of the
people had not as yet subsided. A peculiar air of refinement
distinguished the deportment of the inhabitants: after an exquisite
ramble, I returned through the square, a spacious irregular area, where
the French troops quartered in the place were exercising, and where a
very ancient Gothic town house stands, to supper at my hotel, at the
table d’hote of which I again smarted for the temerity of trespassing
upon this delightful spot. During our repast, which abounded with a
great variety of choice and excellent dishes, and which was attended by
many French officers, a German lady who sat opposite to me, always
addressed and alluded to me by the perilous name of “_Monsieur
Anglois_,” which excited some considerable attention amongst the company
towards me; at last a French officer whose physiognomy did not present
the most pleasing collection of features, rose up, eyed me all over, and
went out: I expected nothing less than being obliged to take shelter
once more under my American alliance, but after waiting in the room an
hour, I saw nothing more of him, and went to bed. Whilst a cruel and
savage state of hostility between man and man thus embarrassed the
progress of a traveller, whose only object was to contemplate the
beautiful face of nature, never did the divine object of his pursuit
appear more arrayed in the smiles of _peace_ and loveliness. The
government of Bonn, as well as Cologne, and all the other cities on the
left bank of the Rhine is vested in a governor appointed by Napoleon,
and is purely military. Under a clear and cloudless sky I bade adieu to
Bonn with great reluctance, and embarked on board of the passage-boat
bound to Cassel. As we passed the lofty towers of Plittersdorff, on our
right, the Rhine unfolded itself in all its glory. On our left the seven
mountains (Sieben Geburge) called the Drakenfels, Wolkenbourg,
Rolandsekke, Löwenburgh, Nonnenstromberg, Hoke Ochlbey, and Hemmerick,
arose with uncommon grandeur, crowned with convents and the venerable
ruins of castles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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