A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
The extremity of the bridge towards Cassel, and all the ramparts and
redoubts of the town, which are very strongly fortified, were occupied
by French soldiers. With two German gentlemen and a Dutch officer, I set
off for Francfort, distant eight stunder or hours, or four German miles,
under a scorching sun, which did not seem to have any effect upon a
large party of monks and priests, and followers, bearing the host, who
were walking bare headed in procession to a monastery which we had just
passed, near which I left the carriage to make a sketch of Mayence, upon
a projecting bank of the river Maine, where I bade adieu to the Rhine.
Our road lay through an avenue of walnut, apple, and pear trees, loaded
with fruit, to which passengers helped themselves whenever inclination
disposed them to do so; and part of the Hockheim hills, covered with the
renowned vineyards, which produce what in England is called old hock. As
many a saint, high in superstitious veneration, must have had at least
ten skulls and one hundred toe nails, as if no illusion has been
practised by those who have exhibited them to the credulous in different
eras and various regions, so nothing short of the power of transmuting
water into wine, could produce from these vineyards the immense quantity
of wine which passes under the title of hock. Certain it is, that the
greater quantity of wine honoured with that name, is from the grapes of
both sides of the lower part of the Rhine. In the district where it is
produced, very old genuine Hockheim wine is sold at the rate of three,
and sometimes five, shillings a bottle.
At the first stage we stopped at a village where there is a noble
building upon an eminence, commanding a beautiful prospect, which I at
first took for a palace, but it proved to be a tobacco manufactory,
warehouses, and the residence of the proprietor and his family; the
front is five hundred feet long, and the whole exterior infinitely more
princely than Buckingham-house. After passing this place the road became
level, and the country presented corn-fields, pasture, and orchards in
great abundance. For many miles round, this country had been often the
theatre of hostilities; and though Nature had long since effaced their
melancholy impressions from her fields by reviving verdure, yet
prostrate cottages and battered convents displayed the march and ravages
of the demon War! Happy, thrice happy my own country, where the sound of
cannon is never heard but to announce a victory, or to augment the
gaiety of some festive occasion!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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