A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
Linglebach, the celebrated painter, was born here in 1625. His subjects
were fairs, mountebanks, sea prospects, naval engagements, and
landscapes, in which he eminently excelled. In company with my two
friends from whom I parted at Rotterdam, and who rejoined me here, I set
off for Darmstadt, about eighteen English miles from Francfort. We
crossed a noble bridge over the Maine, and passed through a
considerable, and fortified town, called Saxenhausen. Our road, which
was sandy, was for a considerable way lined with luxuriant
nursery-grounds and vineyards. About four miles from Francfort we passed
a plain oaken post, about six feet high, upon which, under a painted
star and crown, was written (in German), “Sovereign Territory of the
Prince Primate of the Rhenish confederation.” Upon this road I saw, for
the first time, a great number of little posts, painted white and
numbered; they are called minute-posts, by which the pedestrian
traveller is enabled to ascertain with great exactness the progress he
makes in his journey. A very handsome avenue of stately poplars, of
nearly two English miles, forms the approach to the city, which is
nearly surrounded by a lofty wall, not capable of affording much
protection against an enemy. The suburbs contain some handsome houses,
in which, as the principal hotel in the city was full, we took up our
quarters at the post-house, a very excellent inn.
For a capital, Darmstadt is small, and its palace infinitely too large:
of the latter the Emperor Joseph sarcastically observed, that it was big
enough to accommodate himself and the nine electors. However, very
little of the internal part is finished, and most of the windows are
boarded up. The Grand Duke and his family reside in a part of a new
palace, projecting from the old one, looking towards the gardens. That
immense structure is built in imitation of the Thuilleries, and
surrounded by a broad deep dry ditch. The hereditary Prince, who married
the youngest daughter of the House of Baden, and whose sisters share the
thrones of Russia and Sweden, has a large and handsome house at a little
distance from the old palace; exclusive of this prince, his Royal
Highness the Grand Duke, Louis the Tenth, has several other children. He
is turned of fifty years of age, is an enlightened, brave, and amiable
prince, and a celebrated engineer. He was the last of the German princes
who in the last war sheathed the sword he had drawn against the French;
a power which the preservation of his dignity and his dominion compelled
him to coalesce with. Bonaparte, when he was digesting the Rhenish
Confederation, wished to invest him with the kingly dignity, but the
Grand Duke declined the offer. Darmstadt has produced many valiant and
distinguished officers. At the parade I had the pleasure of seeing
General Von Werner, the governor of the city, who at the head of the
chevaux legers, or light horse, performed prodigies of valour in the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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