A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806Carr, John, Sir
History
A tour through Holland : $b along the right and left banks of the Rhine, to the south of Germany, in the summer and autumn of 1806
Carr, John, Sir
Netherlands -- Description and travel; Rhine River Valley -- Description and travel
It has been asserted by some travellers, that the Dutch treasure this
spot more from national pride than feeling, and that they are more
disposed to preserve than to enjoy it. To this remark I have only to
offer, that I saw a considerable number of equestrian and pedestrian
groups, who appeared to relish its shaded roads, and sequestered walks
with great delight. The royal residence is to the right at the end of
the wood. Upon my asking a Dutchman which path led to the “house in the
wood,” the only appellation by which, in the time of the Stadtholder, it
was known, he sharply replied, “I presume you mean the _palace_ in the
wood.” This building is merely fit for the residence of a country
gentleman, and has nothing princely about it, except the centry boxes at
the foot of the flight of stairs ascending to the grand entrance: two
tall and not very perpendicular poles, from the tops of which is
stretched a cord, suspending in the centre a large lamp, stand on each
side of the house in front of the palace; on the left are the
coach-houses and stablings, which are perfectly plain, and are just
separated from the court road by a small stunted plantation: there was a
very handsome carriage of the king’s in the coach-house, without arms or
cyphers, of a pale blue colour, which, with silver lace, is the colour
of the new royal livery. The carriage had every appearance of having
been built in England. Excepting this, I never before saw a carriage,
unless appropriated for state occasions, belonging to any crowned head
on the continent, that an Englishman of taste and opulence would be
satisfied with. Even the carriages of Napoleon, built in a city so
celebrated for its taste in design, and beauty of workmanship, as Paris,
are clumsy and unpleasant to the eye. Although it was Sunday, the sound
of workmen, actively engaged in modernizing the palace after the
Parisian taste, issued from almost every window. Some Dutchmen who were
contemplating the front of the house, shook their heads at this
encroachment of the sabbath. In consequence of the internal arrangement
not being finished, strangers were not admitted. The walks on the
outside of the gardens are formal and insipid; the gardens themselves
are handsomely disposed, and kept in great order, and the whole of the
premises is insulated by stagnant canals crossed with draw-bridges.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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