A Tour Through South AmericaForrest, A. S. (Archibald Stevenson)
History
A Tour Through South America
Forrest, A. S. (Archibald Stevenson)
South America -- Description and travel
Paraguay; and during the summer months heat, dullness, and sand are its
principal attractions. Almost every other house bears a brass plate
signifying that a lawyer or doctor resides within, surely an
unpropitious omen for the peace and happiness of the inhabitants. Very
few shops of any importance enliven the dismal solitude of the streets,
and the business houses and warehouses have unpretentious exteriors, and
even before and after the siesta hours from eleven to two they are
anything but animated. There is a considerable trade passing through the
port, however, which makes the river front the liveliest portion of the
town. In the Plaza there is the prescribed statue of San Martin, the
cathedral, bandstand, and ornamental garden. One ancient building takes
up almost the entire side of the square. It is weather-stained, faded,
and worn, its dilapidated front bears evidence of antiquity, and
tradition says that it is contemporaneous with the foundation of the
city. The general decay which has spread over most of the neighbouring
buildings is more apparent on this ancient residence of the Governor of
the State. Its strongly barred windows suggest a prison rather than a
palace, but in days gone by Governors were not the most popular persons
in the Spanish colonies, and they needed a strong protection from the
disaffected. The Government buildings in the Plaza are in the modern
French Renaissance style, their high mansard roofs and delicate plaster
ornamentations incongruously placed amidst the heavier and less fanciful
styles of the early colonial architecture. The cathedral, which is of
the usual type, is lit by the modern electric light, although the
priests who administer to the religious needs, and light up the
spiritual darkness of the population, still array themselves in the
rough brown robes of their order. At one corner of the Plaza stands a
large house of one story, with a richly ornamented front in the
classical style; through its open door a glimpse is caught of a
beautiful patio filled with palms, vines, and plants. These patios are
the only bright spots in the city, and even the most forbidding and
dirty-looking habitations are rich in the possession of these cheery,
verdant bowers. Some of the “posadas” or inns are picturesque enough to
look at, particularly if they are regarded from the point of view of a
lover of ruins, but as hostelries they do not offer much attraction, for
their tottering walls threaten to engulf the inmates, particularly when
a good storm is raging. Under the verandahs groups of women sit
gossiping and smoking big cigars, which they puff with real enjoyment. A
strange medley of animals lies around--dogs, cats, monkeys, pigs, and
the curious carpincha, whilst through the turned wooden bars that screen
the windows handsome young faces framed with brightly covered scarves
peep out at the few passers-by.
[Illustration: OLD HOUSES IN CORRIENTES.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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