We crossed the Wye from Tintern, that we might follow the beauties of the river in our way to Monmouth; then ascending a precipitous wild-wooded hill, we took a farewel view of our much-loved abbey, and soon looked down on the old village of TINTERN, delightfully placed on the opposite bank of the Wye, and dignified with the ruin of the Abbot’s mansion. {274} Upon completing our descent in traversing the hill, we entered the irregular village of BROOK’S WEIR, off which a number of sloops of from 80 to 100 tons were at anchor: these vessels were waiting for their cargoes from Hereford and Monmouth, which are brought hither in flat-bottomed barges, as the tide flows no higher than this place. We had now a delightful ride for several miles over meadows and pastures that skirted the Wye; whose majestic stream, almost filling the narrow valley, reflected the inclosing hills from its surface in a style of inimitable beauty; while the rich ascending woods on either side threw a softened light on the translucent river and its verdant margin; so sweetly in harmony with the pleasing solitude of the scene, as might dispose even revelry itself to fall in love with retirement: “O blest retirement, friend to life’s decline, Retreat from care, that never must be mine: How blest is he, who crowns, in shades like these, A youth of labour with an age of ease!” About four miles above Tintern the rural little village of LANDAGO saluted us with its white church and cottages, glistening through encircling trees, as it skirted the river and climbed the side of a lofty hill. We then followed a gentle curvature of the Wye to Bigg’s Weir, a ridge of rocks which cross the river, leaving only a small interval for the current. A string of barges was unravelling its course in this strait as we were passing; which task seemed to engage all the vigilance and activity of the watermen. Near this spot the house (an ordinary mansion) and grounds of General Rooke, member for the county of Monmouth, occupying part of the river’s bank, obliged us to make a short deviation; but, soon returning to our limpid stream, we caught a glimpse of the church and castle of St. Briavel, crowning an eminence in the forest of Dean just behind us; and in front, a short distance beyond the opposite bank, appeared the decaying importance of Pilson-house.