A Tour Up the Straits, from Gibraltar to Constantinople: With the Leading Events in the Present War Between the Austrians, Russians, and the Turks, to the Commencement of the Year 1789Sutherland, David, Captain
History
A Tour Up the Straits, from Gibraltar to Constantinople: With the Leading Events in the Present War Between the Austrians, Russians, and the Turks, to the Commencement of the Year 1789
Sutherland, David, Captain
Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel; Russo-Turkish War, 1787-1792
The dead at Palermo are never buried; but their bodies are carried to
the Capuchin Convent, where, after the funeral service is performed,
they are dried in a stove, heated by a composition of lime, which makes
the skin adhere to the bones. They are then placed erect in niches, and
fastened to the wall by the back or neck. A piece of coarse drab is
thrown over the shoulders, and round the waist; and their hands are tied
together, holding a piece of paper with their epitaph, which is simply
their names, age, and when they died.
We of course visited this famous repository, and it is natural to
suppose, that so many corpses would impress one with reverence and awe.
It was near dusk when we arrived at the Convent. We passed the chapel
where one of the order had just finished saying vespers, by the gloomy
glimmering of a dying lamp. We were then conducted through a garden,
where the yew, the cypress, and the barren orange obscured the remaining
light, and where melancholy silence is only disturbed by the hollow
murmuring of a feeble waterfall. All these circumstances tuned our minds
for the dismal scene we were going to behold, but we had still to
descend a flight of steps impervious to the sun. And these, at last,
conveyed us to the dreary mansion of the dead.
But (will you believe me?) notwithstanding the chilling scene we had
gone through; notwithstanding our being in the midst of more than a
thousand lifeless bodies, neither our respect for the dead, or for the
holy fathers who conducted us, could prevent our smiling. For the
physiognomies of the deceased are so ludicrously mutilated, and their
muscles so contracted and distorted in the drying, that no French mimick
could equal their grimaces. Most of the corpses have lost the lower part
of the nose--their necks are generally a little twisted--their mouths
drawn awry in one direction--their noses in another--their eyes sunk and
pointed different ways--one ear perhaps turned up--the other drawn down.
The friars soon observed the mirth these unexpected visages occasioned,
and one of them as a kind of _memento_, pointed out to me a Captain of
Cavalry, who had just been cut off in the pride of his youth. But three
months ago he was the minion of a King--the favorite of a
Princess--Alas! how changed! Even on earth there is no distinction
between him and the meanest beggar. This in a moment returned me to
myself, and I felt, with full force, the folly of human vanity. I turned
to the holy father, who gave me this lesson. His eyes were fixed on what
was once a Captain of horse--I saw in them
"Read this, titled pomp, and shrink
to thy original nothingness."
"Hie thee to my lady's chamber,
tell her, though she paint an inch
thick, to this must she come at last--make
her laugh at that."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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