Americans -- Europe -- History -- 20th century; Dreiser, Theodore, 1871-1945 -- Travel -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel
We went out to see the ruined monument to Augustus Cæsar, crumbling
on this high mountain and commanding the great blue sweep of the
Mediterranean below. There were a number of things in connection with
this monument which were exceedingly interesting. It illustrated so
well the Roman method of construction: a vast core of rubble and
brick, faced with marble. Barfleur informed me that only recently the
French government had issued an order preventing the removal of any
more of the marble, much of which had already been stolen, carted
away or cut up here into other forms. Immense marble drums of pure
white stone were still lying about, fallen from their places; and in
the surrounding huts of the peasant residents of La Turbie could be
seen parts of once noble pillars set into the fabric of their shabby
doorways or used as corner-stones to support their pathetic little
shelters. I recall seeing several of these immense drums of stone set
at queer angles under the paper walls of the huts, the native peasants
having built on them as a base, quite as a spider might attach its
gossamer net to a substantial bush or stone. I reflected at length on
the fate of greatness and how little the treasures of one age may be
entrusted to another. Time and chance, dullness and wasteful ignorance,
lie in wait for them all.
The village of La Turbie, although in France, gave me my first
real taste of the Italian village. High up on this mountain above
Monte Carlo, in touch really with the quintessence of showy
expenditure--clothes, jewels, architecture, food--here it stood, quite
as it must have been standing for the last three or four hundred
years--its narrow streets clambering up and down between houses of
gray stone or brick, covered with gray lichens. I thought of Benvenuto
Cellini--how he always turned the corners of the dark, narrow streets
of Rome in as wide a circle as possible in order to save himself from
any lurking assassin--that he might draw his own knife quickly. Dirt
and age and quaintness and romance: it was in these terms that La
Turbie spoke to us. Although anxious to proceed to Eze, not so very
far away, which they both assured me was so much more picturesque
and characteristic, yet we lingered, looking lovingly up and down
narrow passages where stairs clambered gracefully, where arches
curved picturesquely over streets, and where plants bloomed bravely
in spotted, crumbling windows. Age! age! And with it men, women and
children of the usual poverty-stricken Italian type--not French, but
Italians. Women with bunchy blue or purple skirts, white or colored
kerchiefs, black hair, wrinkled, yellow or blackish-brown faces,
glittering dark eyes and claw-like hands.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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