Americans -- Europe -- History -- 20th century; Dreiser, Theodore, 1871-1945 -- Travel -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel
If a preliminary glance at Switzerland suggested to me a high
individuality, primarily Teutonic but secondarily national and
distinctive, all I saw afterwards in Germany and Holland with which I
contrasted it, confirmed my first impression. I believe that the Swiss,
for all that they speak the German language and have an architecture
that certainly has much in common with that of medieval Germany, are
yet of markedly diverging character. They struck me in the main as
colder, more taciturn, more introspective and less flamboyant than the
Germans. The rank and file, in so far as I could see, were extremely
sparing, saving, reserved. They reminded me more of such Austrians and
Tyrolians as I have known, than of Germans. They were thinner, livelier
in their actions, not so lusty nor yet so aggressive.
The new architecture which I saw between Lucerne and the German
frontier reminded me of much of that which one sees in northern Ohio
and Indiana and southern Michigan. There are still traces of the
over-elaborate curlicue type of structure and decoration so interesting
as being representative of medieval Teutonic life, but not much. The
new manufacturing towns were very clean and spruce with modern factory
buildings of the latest almost-all-glass type; and churches and public
buildings, obviously an improvement or an attempt at improvement on
older Swiss and Teutonic ideals, were everywhere apparent. Lucerne
itself is divided into an old section, honored and preserved for its
historic and commercial value, as being attractive to travelers; a
new section, crowded with stores, tenements and apartments of the
latest German and American type; and a hotel section, filled with large
Anglicized and Parisianized structures, esplanades, small lounging
squares and the like. I never bothered to look at Thorwaldsen’s famous
lion. One look at a photograph years ago alienated me forever.
I had an interesting final talk on the morning of my departure from
Lucerne with the resident manager of the hotel who was only one of
many employees of a company that controlled, so he told me, hotels
in Berlin, Frankfort, Paris, Rome and London. He had formerly been
resident manager of a hotel in Frankfort, the one to which I was going,
and said that he might be transferred any time to some other one. He
was the man, as I learned, whom I had seen rowing on the lake the first
morning I sat out on my balcony--the one whom the wild ducks followed.
“I saw you,” I said as I paid my bill, “out rowing on the lake the
other morning. I should say that was pleasant exercise.”
“I always do it,” he said very cheerfully. He was a tall, pale,
meditative man with a smooth, longish, waxen countenance and very dark
hair. He was the last word as to toilet and courtesy. “I am glad to
have the chance. I love nature.”
“Are those wild ducks I see on the lake flying about?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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