Americans -- Europe -- History -- 20th century; Dreiser, Theodore, 1871-1945 -- Travel -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel
This first afternoon trip was pleasant enough, acquainting me as it did
with the character of the country about Bridgely Level for miles and
miles. Up to this time I had been commiserated on the fact that it was
winter and I was seeing England under the worst possible conditions,
but I am not so sure that it was such a great disadvantage. To-day
as we sped down some damp, slippery hillside where the river Thames
was to be seen far below twisting like a letter S in the rain, I
thought to myself that light and color--summer light and color--would
help but little. The villages that we passed were all rain-soaked
and preternaturally solemn. There were few if any people abroad. We
did not pass a single automobile on the way to Penn and but a single
railroad track. These little English villages for all the extended
English railway system, are practically without railway communication.
You have to drive or walk a number of miles to obtain suitable railway
connection.
I recall the sag-roofed, moss-patterned, vine-festooned cottages of
once red but now brownish-green brick, half hidden behind high brick
walls where curiously clipped trees sometimes stood up in sentinel
order, and vines and bushes seemed in a conspiracy to smother the doors
and windows in an excess of knitted leafage. Until you see them no
words can adequately suggest the subtlety of age and some old order
of comfort, once prevailing, but now obsolete, which these little
towns and separate houses convey. You know, at a glance, that they
are not of this modern work-a-day world. You know at a glance that no
power under the sun can save them. They are of an older day and an
older thought--the thought perhaps that goes with Gray’s “Elegy” and
Goldsmith’s “Traveller” and “Deserted Village.”
That night at dinner, before and after, we fell into a most stirring
argument. As I recall, it started with Sir Scorp’s insisting that St.
Paul’s of London, which is a product of the skill of Sir Christopher
Wren, as are so many of the smaller churches of London, was infinitely
superior externally to the comparatively new and still unfinished Roman
Catholic Cathedral of Westminster. With that I could not agree. I have
always objected, anyhow, to the ground plan of the Gothic cathedral,
namely, the cross, as being the worst possible arrangement which could
be devised for an interior. It is excellent as a scheme for three or
four interiors--the arms of the cross being always invisible from the
nave--but as one interior, how can it compare with the straight-lying
basilica which gives you one grand forward sweep, or the solemn Greek
temple with its pediment and glorifying rows of columns. Of all
forms of architecture, other things being equal, I most admire the
Greek, though the Gothic exteriorly, even more than interiorly, has a
tremendous appeal. It is so airy and florate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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