Americans -- Europe -- History -- 20th century; Dreiser, Theodore, 1871-1945 -- Travel -- Europe; Europe -- Description and travel
I learned from Barfleur where Walter Pater and Oscar Wilde lived, where
Shelley’s essay on atheism was burned, and where afterwards a monument
was erected to him, where some English bishops were burned for refusing
to recant their religious beliefs and where the dukes and princes of
the realm were quartered in their college days. Sir Scorp descanted on
the pity of the fact, that some, who would have loved a world such as
this in their youth, could never afford to come here, while others who
were as ignorant as boors and as dull as swine, were for reasons of
wealth and family allowed to wallow in a world of art which they could
not possibly appreciate. Here as elsewhere I learned that professors
were often cads and pedants--greedy, jealous, narrow, academic. Here as
elsewhere precedence was the great fetish of brain and the silly riot
of the average college student was as common as in the meanest school.
Life is the same, be art great or little, and the fame of even Oxford
cannot gloss over the weakness of a humanity that will alternately be
low and high, shabby and gorgeous, narrow and vast.
The last thing we saw were some very old portions of Christ College,
which had been inhabited by Dominican monks, I believe, in their day,
and this thrilled and delighted me quite as much as anything. I forgot
all about the rain in trying to recall the type of man and the type of
thought that must have passed in and out of those bolt-riven doors, but
it was getting time to leave and my companions would have none of my
lagging delight.
It was blowing rain and as we were leaving Oxford I lost my cap and had
to walk back after it. Later I lost my glove! As we rode my mind went
back over the ancient chambers, the paneled woodwork, stained glass
windows, and high vaulted ceilings I had just seen. The heavy benches
and somber portraits in oil sustained themselves in my mind clearly.
Oxford, I said to myself, was a jewel architecturally. Another thousand
years and it would be as a dream of the imagination. I feel now as if
its day were done; as if so much gentle beauty can not endure. I had
seen myself the invasion of the electric switch board and the street
car in High Street, and of course other things will come. Already the
western world is smiling at a solemnity and a beauty which are noble
and lovely to look upon, but which cannot keep pace with a new order
and a new need.
CHAPTER XVI
A CHRISTMAS CALL
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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