[157] If the Suillus be indeed the same as the modern Porcino, as its name would imply, few who know how good it is will be disposed to pity Martial, who laments his hard case, in having had to eat this fungus at his patron’s table, while he feasted on the Boletus, _i. e._ the _Ag. Cæsareus_. It would seem however from this epigram, that the Suillus was not in Martial’s time, what it now unquestionably is, a favourite with the rich. [158] “Il Sorvegliatore fa gettare ai venditori tutti i funghi fracidi e quelli che crede nocivi, ed è assolutamente proibita la vendita dei così detti prateroli buoni o cattivi che sieno.”—_Sanguinetti_ (extract from an unpublished letter). [159] “This is that variety of _Ag. campestris_ which has been so often confounded with the _Amanita verna_, and with these the _Ag. albus virosus_; all these funguses, besides presenting a strong similarity in appearance, are found in the same locality, and at about the same time of year.”—_Vitt._ [160] Ude complains that we have none of the light French wines for sauces except champagne. Cider or perry will, however, be found good substitutes. [161] “Hopkirk records an instance of one weighing five pounds six ounces, and measuring forty-three inches in circumference. Withering mentions another that weighed fourteen pounds.”—_Berkeley._ [162] “It is commonly supposed that such funguses as change colour afford thereby a clear evidence of their noxious properties, and yet daily experience, as far as it went, ought to have led to just the opposite conclusion. Almost all the poisonous Agarics have a flesh that does _not_ change colour, and we know as yet of no Boletus, many of which _do_ so change, that is really unsafe to eat.”—_Vitt._ [163] This blue loses much of its intensity by long exposure to the air. It is moreover to be remarked that in specimens, the flesh of which has been eaten into by slugs or insects, no change of colour takes place. [164] This requires further corroboration. [165] Sc. “Blue Hats” (?), as _Ag. Georgii_ is called “White Caps,” and _Ag. Oreades_ “Scotch Bonnets.” [166] This mushroom, famous for the flavour it imparts to rich soups and gravies, is also used in the French “à la mode” beef shops in London, with the view of heightening the flavour of that dish. As the aroma is dissipated by overcooking, it should be thrown in only a few minutes before serving. The dried Champignon is much more extensively used in France and Italy than it is in England. [167] Although the _Ag. oreades_ be, properly speaking, a terrestrial and not a parasitical fungus, still as it springs up amidst the roots of the grasses and flourishes by depriving them of their supplies, the herbage in its neighbourhood is the first to scorch up and wither. [168] I have, however, found them _white_.