A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
Above the door there is an inscription; by which it appears, that any
person who enters with arms is, ipso facto, excommunicated.
INGREDIENTES CUM ARMIS SUNT EXCOMMUNICATI.
There are also the severest denunciations against those who carry
away the smallest particle of the stone and mortar belonging to this
Chapel. The adventure of the burnt breeches, and others of a similar
nature, which are industriously circulated, have contributed as much
as any denunciation, to prevent such attempts. Had it not been for the
impressions they make, so great was the eagerness of the multitude to be
possessed of any portion of this little edifice, that the whole was in
danger of being carried away; not by angels, but piecemeal in the pockets
of the pilgrims.
The Holy House is divided, within, into two unequal portions, by a
kind of grate-work of silver. The division towards the west is about
three-fourths of the whole; that to the east is called the Sanctuary.
In the larger division, which may be considered as the main body of the
house, the walls are left bare, to shew the true original fabric of
Nazareth stone. These stones, which bear such a strong resemblance to
bricks, are loose in many places. I took notice of this to a pilgrim,
who entered with us: he smiled, saying, “Che la non habbia paura,
Padron mio, questi muri sono piu solidi degli Appenini.” At the lower,
or western wall, there is a window, the same through which the angel
Gabriel entered at the Annunciation. The architraves of this window are
covered with silver. There are a great number of golden and silver lamps
in this Chapel; I did not count them, but I was told there were above
sixty; one of them is a present from the republic of Venice: it is of
gold, and weighs thirty-seven pounds: some of the silver lamps weigh
from one hundred and twenty, to one hundred and thirty pounds. At the
upper end of the largest room is an altar, but so low, that from it you
may see the famous image which stands over the chimney, in the small
room, or Sanctuary. Golden and silver angels, of considerable size, kneel
around her, some offering hearts of gold, enriched with diamonds, and
one an infant of pure gold. The wall of the Sanctuary is plated with
silver, and adorned with crucifixes, precious stones, and votive gifts of
various kinds. The figure of the Virgin herself by no means corresponds
with the fine furniture of her house: she is a little woman, about four
feet in height, with the features and complexion of a negro. Of all the
sculptors that ever existed, assuredly St. Luke, by whom this figure is
said to have been made, is the least of a flatterer; and nothing can be
a stronger proof of the blessed Virgin’s contempt for external beauty,
than her being satisfied with this representation of her; especially if,
as I am inclined to believe, her face and person really resembled those
beautiful ideas of her, conveyed by the pencils of Raphael, Corregio,
and Guido.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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