A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
The situation of this town is peculiarly happy. It stands in a charming
valley, laid out in corn-fields and vineyards, interfered by mulberry and
almond trees, and watered by the river Clitumnus; the view terminating on
one side by hills crowned with cities, and on the other by the loftiest
mountains of the Apennines. I never experienced such a sudden and
agreeable change of climate, as on descending from those mountains, in
many places, at present, covered with snow; to this pleasant valley of
Umbria,
Where western gales eternally reside,
And all the seasons lavish all their pride.
From Foligno to Vene, the road lies through this fine plain. A little
before you come to the post-house at Vene, on the right hand, there
is a little building; the front which looks to the valley, is adorned
with six Corinthian pillars; the two in the middle enriched by a laurel
foliage: on one side, is a crucifix in basso relievo, with vine branches
curling around it. On this building, there are some inscriptions which
mention the _resurrection_. Some, who think the architecture too fine
for the first ages of Christianity, and the Temple too old to have been
built since the revival of that art, have conjectured, that this little
edifice is antique, and originally erected by the ancient inhabitants of
Umbria, as a temple, in honour of the river God Clitumnus; but, at some
subsequent period, converted into a Christian chapel, and the crucifix
and inscriptions added after its consecration. Other very respectable
judges think, the style of architecture is by no means pure, but
adulterated by meretricious ornament, and worthy enough of the first ages
of Christianity.
Mr. Addison has given many quotations from the Latin poets, in honour
of this river, all of which countenance the popular opinion with regard
to the quality of the water. The breed of white cattle, which gave such
a reputation to the river, still remains in this country. We saw many
of them as we passed, some milk white, but the greatest numbers of a
whitish grey. The common people still retain the ancient opinion, with
respect to the effect of the water. Spoletto, the capital of Umbria, is
situated on a high rock, the ascent to which is very steep on all sides.
This town retains little appearance of its ancient importance. Keysler
says, that, like other paltry towns in Italy, it exhibits bombastic
inscriptions concerning its antiquity, and many trivial occurrences which
have happened there; the only inscription, however, which he quotes, and
the only one which I saw, is that over the Porta di Fuga, from which the
Carthaginian army is supposed to have been repaired.
ANNIBAL
CÆSIS AD THRASYMENUM ROMANIS
URBEM ROMAM INFENSO AGMINE PETENS,
SPOLETO MAGNA SUORUM CLADE REPULSUS,
INSIGNI FUGA PORTÆ NOMEN FECIT.
I cannot perceive any thing bombastic in this; Livy mentions the fact in
his twenty-second book, in the following terms:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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