A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 1 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
No city in the world has less affinity with the country than Venice, and
few can have more than Padua; for great part of the circuit within the
walls is unbuilt, and the town in general so thinly inhabited, that grass
is seen in many places in the interstices of the stones with which the
streets are paved. The houses are built on porticoes, which, when the
town was well inhabited, and in a flourishing condition, may have had a
magnificent appearance; but, in its present state, they rather give it a
greater air of melancholy and of gloom.
The Franciscan church, dedicated to St. Antonio, the great patron of
this city, was the place we were first led to by the Cicerone of our
inn. The body of this holy person is inclosed in a sarcophagus, under an
altar in the middle of the chapel, and is said to emit a very agreeable
and refreshing flavour. Pious Catholics believe this to be the natural
effluvia of the saint’s body; while Heretics assert, that the perfume
(for a perfume there certainly is) proceeds from certain balsams rubbed
on the marble every morning, before the votaries come to pay their
devotions. I never presume to give an opinion on contested points of
this kind; but I may be allowed to say, that if this sweet odour really
proceeds from the holy Franciscan, he emits a very different smell from
any of the brethren of that order whom I ever had an opportunity of
approaching.
The walls of this church are covered with votive offerings of ears, eyes,
arms, legs, noses, and every part almost of the human body, in token of
cures performed by this saint; for whatever part has been the seat of the
disease, a representation of it is hung up in silver or gold, according
to the gratitude and wealth of the patient.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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