A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent CharactersMoore, John
History
A View of Society and Manners in Italy, Volume 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes Relating to some Eminent Characters
Moore, John
Italy -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Italy -- Social life and customs -- Early works to 1800
“It ought to be remembered, however,” says T——, “that those fellows with
their dogs, who have been tormenting the bull, are butchers, and the
lowest of the vulgar of this country; whereas, among those who order
fish to be crimped, and pigs to be whipped to death, as well as among
those who formerly attended Broughton’s amphitheatre, and still attend
cockpits, will be found people of the first rank in England.”
“Pray,” said N——, addressing himself to me, “did you ever see a cocagna?”
I acknowledged I never had.
“Then,” continued he, “I beg leave to give you an idea of it. It is a
Neapolitan entertainment, relished by people of the first rank in this
polished country; where the very vagrants in the street are instructed
in history, and the human mind is refined by poetry, softened by music,
and elevated by religion. The cocagna—Pray mark me—the cocagna is an
entertainment given to the people four succeeding Sundays during the
carnival. Opposite to the palace, a kind of wooden amphitheatre is
erected. This being covered with branches of trees, bushes, and various
plants, real and artificial, has the appearance of a green hill. On
this hill are little buildings, ornamented with pillars of loaves of
bread, with joints of meat, and dried fish, varnished, and curiously
arranged by way of capitals. Among the trees and bushes are some oxen,
a considerable number of calves, sheep, hogs, and lambs, all alive, and
tied to posts. There are, besides, a great number of living turkies,
geese, hens, pigeons, and other fowls, nailed by the wings to the
scaffolding. Certain Heathen Deities appear also occasionally upon this
hill, but not with a design to protect it, as you shall see immediately.
The guards are drawn up in three ranks, to keep off the populace. The
Royal Family, with all the nobility of the court, crowd the windows
and balconies of the palace, to enjoy this magnificent sight. When his
Majesty waves his handkerchief, the guards open to the right and left;
the rabble pour in from all quarters, and the entertainment commences.
You may easily conceive what a delightful sight it must be, to see
several thousand hungry, half-naked lazzaroni rush in like a torrent,
destroy the whole fabric of loaves, fishes, and joints of meat; overturn
the Heathen Deities, _for the honour of Christianity_; pluck the fowls,
at the expence of their wings, from the posts to which they were nailed;
and, in the fury of their struggling and fighting for their prey, often
tearing the miserable animals to pieces, and sometimes stabbing each
other.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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