A Wanderer in FlorenceLucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
History
A Wanderer in Florence
Lucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
Art -- Italy -- Florence; Florence (Italy) -- Description and travel
In addition to originals there are at South Kensington casts of many
of the Bargello's most valuable possessions, such as Donatello's
and Verrocchio's Davids, Donatello's Baptist and many heads, Mino
da Fiesole's best Madonna, Pollaiuolo's Young Warrior, and so forth;
so that to loiter there is most attractively to recapture something
of the Florentine feeling.
CHAPTER XV
S. Croce
An historic piazza--Marble façades--Florence's Westminster
Abbey--Galileo's ancestor and Ruskin--Benedetto's
pulpit--Michelangelo's tomb--A fond lady--Donatello's
Annunciation--Giotto's frescoes--S. Francis--Donatello magnanimous--The
gifted Alberti--Desiderio's great tomb--The sacristy--The Medici
chapel--The Pazzi chapel--Old Jacopo desecrated--A Restoration.
The piazza S. Croce now belongs to children. The church is at one
end, bizarre buildings are on either side, the Dante statue is in the
middle, and harsh gravel covers the ground. Everywhere are children,
all dirty, and all rather squalid and mostly bow-legged, showing that
they were of the wrong age to take their first steps on Holy Saturday
at noon. The long brown building on the right, as we face S. Croce,
is a seventeenth-century palazzo. For the rest, the architecture is
chiefly notable for green shutters.
The frigid and florid Dante memorial, which was unveiled in 1865 on
the six hundredth anniversary of the poet's birthday, looks gloomily
upon what once was a scene of splendour and animation, for in 1469
Piero de' Medici devised here a tournament in honour of the betrothal
of Lorenzo to Clarice Orsini. The Queen of the tournament was Lucrezia
Donati, and she awarded the first prize to Lorenzo. The tournament cost
10,000 gold florins and was very splendid, Verrocchio and other artists
being called in to design costumes, and it is thought that Pollaiuolo's
terra-cotta of the Young Warrior in the Bargello represents the comely
Giuliano de' Medici as he appeared in his armour in the lists. The
piazza was the scene also of that famous tournament given by Lorenzo
de' Medici for Giuliano in 1474, of which the beautiful Simonetta
was the Queen of Beauty, and to which, as I have said elsewhere, we
owe Botticelli's two most famous pictures. Difficult to reconstruct
in the Piazza any of those glories to-day.
The new façade of S. Croce, endowed not long since by an Englishman,
has been much abused, but it is not so bad. As the front of so
beautiful and wonderful a church it may be inadequate, but as a
structure of black and white marble it will do. To my mind nothing
satisfactory can now be done in this medium, which, unless it is
centuries old, is always harsh and cuts the sky like a knife, instead
of resting against it as architecture should. But when it is old,
as at S. Miniato, it is right.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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