A Wanderer in FlorenceLucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
History
A Wanderer in Florence
Lucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
Art -- Italy -- Florence; Florence (Italy) -- Description and travel
Before leaving the Accademia for the last time, one should glance
at the tapestries near the main entrance, just for fun. That one in
which Adam names the animals is so delightfully naive that it ought to
be reproduced as a nursery wall-paper. The creatures pass in review
in four processions, and Adam must have had to be uncommonly quick
to make up his mind first and then rattle out their resultant names
in the time. The main procession is that of the larger quadrupeds,
headed by the unicorn in single glory; and the moment chosen by the
artist is that in which the elephant, having just heard his name
(for the first time) and not altogether liking it, is turning towards
Adam in surprised remonstrance. The second procession is of reptiles,
led by the snail; the third, the smaller quadrupeds, led by four rats,
followed desperately close (but of course under the white flag) by two
cats; while the fourth--all sorts and conditions of birds--streams
through the air. The others in this series are all delightful, not
the least being that in which God, having finished His work, takes
Adam's arm and flies with him over the earth to point out its merits.
CHAPTER XVII
Two Monasteries and a Procession
The Certosa--A Company of Uncles--The
Cells--Machiavelli--Impruneta--The
della Robbias--Pontassieve--Pelago--Milton's
simile--Vallombrosa--S. Gualberto--Prato and the Lippis--The Grassina
Albergo--An American invasion--The Procession of the Dead Christ--My
loss.
Everyone who merely visits Florence holds it a duty to bring home at
least one flask of the Val d'Ema liqueur from the Carthusian monastery
four or five miles distant from the city, not because that fiery
distillation is peculiarly attractive but because the vessels which
contain it are at once pretty decorations and evidences of travel and
culture. They can be bought in Florence itself, it is true (at a shop
at the corner of the Via de' Cerretani, close to the Baptistery),
but the Certosa is far too interesting to miss, if one has time to
spare from the city's own treasures. The trams start from the Mercato
Nuovo and come along the Via dell' Arcivescovado to the Baptistery,
and so to the Porta Romana and out into the hilly country. The ride
is dull and rather tiresome, for there is much waiting at sidings,
but the expedition becomes attractive immediately the tram is
left. There is then a short walk, principally up the long narrow
approach to the monastery gates, outside which, when I was there,
was sitting a beggar at a stone table, waiting for the bowl of soup
to which all who ask are entitled.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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