A Wanderer in FlorenceLucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
History
A Wanderer in Florence
Lucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
Art -- Italy -- Florence; Florence (Italy) -- Description and travel
The particular treasure of the church is the extremely ornate chapel
of the Virgin, containing a picture of the Virgin displayed once a
year on the Feast of the Annunciation, March 25th, in the painting
of which the Virgin herself took part, descending from heaven for
that purpose. The artist thus divinely assisted was Pietro Cavallini,
a pupil of Giotto. The silver shrine for the picture was designed by
Michelozzo and was a beautiful thing before the canopy and all the
distressing accessories were added. It was made at the order of Piero
de' Medici, who was as fond of this church as his father Cosimo was
of S. Lorenzo. Michelozzo only designed it; the sculpture was done
by Pagno di Lapo Portigiani, whose Madonna is over the tomb of Pope
John by Donatello and Michelozzo in the Baptistery.
Among the altar-pieces are two by Perugino; but of Florentine
altar-pieces one can say little or nothing in a book of reasonable
dimensions. There are so many and they are for the most part so
difficult to see. Now and then one arrests the eye and holds it;
but for the most part they go unstudied. The rotunda of the choir
is interesting, for here we meet again Alberti, who completed it
from designs by Michelozzo. It does not seem to fit the church from
within, and even less so from without, but it is a fine structure. The
seventeenth-century painting of the dome is almost impressive.
But one can forget and forgive all the church's gaudiness and floridity
when the choir is in good voice and the strings play Palestrina as
they did last Easter Sunday. The Annunziata is famous for its music,
and on the great occasions people crowd there as nowhere else. At High
Mass the singing was fine but the instrumental music finer. One is
accustomed to seeing vicarious worship in Italy; but never was there
so vicarious a congregation as ours, and indeed if it had not been
for the sight of the busy celibates at the altar one would not have
known that one was worshipping at all. The culmination of detachment
came when a family of Siamese or Burmese children, in native dress,
entered. A positive hum went round, and not an eye but was fixed
on the little Orientals. When, however, the organ was for a while
superseded and the violas and violins quivered under the plangent
melody of Palestrina, our roving attention was fixed and held.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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