A Wanderer in FlorenceLucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
History
A Wanderer in Florence
Lucas, E. V. (Edward Verrall)
Art -- Italy -- Florence; Florence (Italy) -- Description and travel
No longer is preserved here the miraculous crucifix which, standing
in a little chapel in the wood on this spot, bestowed blessing and
pardon--by bending towards him--upon S. Giovanni Gualberto, the founder
of the Vallombrosan order. The crucifix is now in S. Trinita. The saint
was born in 985 of noble stock and assumed naturally the splendour and
arrogance of his kind. His brother Hugo being murdered in some affray,
Giovanni took upon himself the duty of avenging the crime. One Good
Friday he chanced to meet, near this place, the assassin, in so narrow
a passage as to preclude any chance of escape; and he was about to kill
him when the man fell on his knees and implored mercy by the passion of
Christ Who suffered on that very day, adding that Christ had prayed on
the cross for His own murderers. Giovanni was so much impressed that he
not only forgave the man but offered him his friendship. Entering then
the chapel to pray and ask forgiveness of all his sins, he was amazed
to see the crucifix bend down as though acquiescing and blessing, and
this special mark of favour so wrought upon him that he became a monk,
himself shaving his head for that purpose and defying his father's
rage, and subsequently founded the Vallombrosan order. He died in 1073.
I have said something of the S. Croce habit and the S. Maria Novella
habit; but I think that when all is said the S. Miniato habit is
the most important to acquire. There is nothing else like it; and
the sense of height is so invigorating too. At all times of the year
it is beautiful; but perhaps best in early spring, when the highest
mountains still have snow upon them and the neighbouring slopes are
covered with tender green and white fruit blossom, and here the violet
wistaria blooms and there the sombre crimson of the Judas-tree.
Behind and beside the church is a crowded city of the Florentine
dead, reproducing to some extent the city of the Florentine living,
in its closely packed habitations--the detached palaces for the rich
and the great congeries of cells for the poor--more of which are
being built all the time. There is a certain melancholy interest in
wandering through these silent streets, peering through the windows
and recognizing over the vaults names famous in Florence. One learns
quickly how bad modern mortuary architecture and sculpture can be,
but I noticed one monument with some sincerity and unaffected grace:
that to a charitable Marchesa, a friend of the poor, at the foot of
whose pedestal are a girl and baby done simply and well.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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