A Week's Tramp in Dickens-Land: Together with Personal Reminiscences of the 'Inimitable Boz' Therein CollectedHughes, William R. (William Richard)
General
A Week's Tramp in Dickens-Land: Together with Personal Reminiscences of the 'Inimitable Boz' Therein Collected
Hughes, William R. (William Richard)
Dickens, Charles, 1812-1870; England -- Description and travel
"Among these secluded nooks there is little stir
or movement after dark. There is little enough in
the high tide of the day, but there is next to
none at night. Besides that, the cheerfully
frequented High Street lies nearly parallel to the
spot (the old Cathedral rising between the two),
and is the natural channel in which the
Cloisterham traffic flows, a certain awful hush
pervades the ancient pile, the cloisters, and the
churchyard after dark, which not many people care
to encounter. . . . One might fancy that the tide
of life was stemmed by Mr. Jasper's own Gatehouse.
The murmur of the tide is heard beyond; but no
wave passes the archway, over which his lamp burns
red behind the curtain, as if the building were a
Lighthouse. . . .
"The red light burns steadily all the evening in
the Lighthouse on the margin of the tide of busy
life. Softened sounds and hum of traffic pass it,
and flow on irregularly into the lonely precincts;
but very little else goes by save violent rushes
of wind. It comes on to blow a boisterous gale. . . .
John Jasper's lamp is kindled, and his Lighthouse
is shining, when Mr. Datchery returns alone
towards it. As mariners on a dangerous voyage,
approaching an iron-bound coast, may look along
the beams of the warning light to the haven lying
beyond it that may never be reached, so Mr.
Datchery's wistful gaze is directed to this beacon
and beyond. . . ."
The sensation of calm in passing suddenly out of the busy High Street of
Rochester into the subdued precincts of the Cathedral, as above
described, is very marked and peculiar, and must be experienced to be
realized.
Among the many interesting ancient buildings in "the lonely precincts"
may be mentioned the old Episcopal Palace of the Bishops of Rochester.
My friend Mr. George Payne, F.S.A., Hon. Sec. of the Kent Archaeological
Society, who now lives there, writes me that:--"it is impossible to say
when it was first built, but it was rebuilt _circa_ 1200, the Palace
which preceded it having been destroyed by fire. Bishop Fisher was
appointed to the See in 1504, and mainly resided at Rochester. The
learned prelate here entertained the great Erasmus in 1516, and Cardinal
Wolsey in 1527. In 1534 Bishop Fisher left Rochester never to return,
being beheaded on Tower Hill, June 22nd, 1535. The front of the Palace
has been coated with rough plaster work dusted over with broken tile,
but the rear walls are in their original state, being wholly composed of
rag, tufa, and here and there Roman tiles. The cellars are of the most
massive construction, and many of the rooms are panelled."
[Illustration: The Vines and Restoration House]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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