The Chinese name of the street extending from the east to the west gate, and passing through the heart of the city, is, when rendered into English, the “Street of Benevolence and Love.” By the foreigners, however, it is called East and West Street. As a striking instance of the “westward march” of the Chinese mind, we observed, in passing through this street, an advertisement of Dr. Jayne’s medicines posted in a conspicuous place near a tablet of the sage Confucius. In this part of the town we visited a Confucian temple, which, _malgré_ its Chinese architecture and ornament, was really beautiful. It belonged to the _literati_ of the district or county, and was an educational establishment or college, where students take their first literary degree.[24] The buildings are of granite, having ornate roofs covered with highly glazed green tile. Near one of the city prisons we met a deplorable-looking prisoner, who, chained and led by his keeper, presented a fitting introductory scene to the Temple of Horrors, which we were about to enter. The open space fronting this temple was mostly occupied by the stalls of fortune-tellers, gamblers, dealers in incense-paper, beggars, and crowds of Chinese. In fact, the appearance of the outer court was too much like Pandemonium to admit of a very close inspection, and I found myself oppressed with a sensation of fear as my chair was borne through it. I therefore merely took a hurried glance at the interior of the apartments where the different tortures of hell were represented. These were too cruelly shocking, and too painfully suggestive of Dante’s “Inferno,” to allow of any description. Apartments a little off from these were devoted to idols, before whom the poor, besotted people were bowing in worship. Our transition from this temple of horrid spectacles to the _Yamun_, or residence of the Imperial Treasurer of the province, was delightfully refreshing. The avenue leading to this place was bordered with ancient banians, and in a large park deer were grazing. The grounds, besides having pretty flower-gardens, were ornamented with arches, rock-work, and little fancy buildings. Large sculptured lions, of fierce aspect, stood guard at the outer gate; but the roar of the Chinese lion has proved itself as deficient in power, as these representations were defective in truthfully delineating that animal, and we found the French flag floating above them. The place, although falling to decay, was like an extensive villa in the heart of a walled city. It was taken from the Chinese when the Allies entered Canton, and, as “might makes right,” in accordance with the demands of the French Government, it fell into their hands. At the time of our visit it was occupied by Baron Trenqualye, a French official, who, in the very tranquil enjoyment of the poor treasurer’s usurped abode, was taking his _siesta_ when we sent in our cards.[25]