Alexander (Brig); Burns, Walter Noble, 1872-1932 -- Voyages and travels; Whalers (Persons) -- United States -- Biography; Whaling
It was not quite bright enough to read by--but almost--and it threw sharp,
black shadows on the deck. Gradually the arch would fade, to be succeeded
by others that spanned the heavens from other angles. Often several arches
and segments were in the sky at the same time. Sometimes, though rarely,
the aurora assumed the form of a curtain hanging vertically along the
horizon and shimmered as though agitated by a strong wind.
I was pleasantly surprised by the temperatures encountered in the Arctic.
We were in the polar ocean until early in October, but the lowest
temperature recorded by the brig's thermometer was 10 degrees below zero.
Such a temperature seems colder on sea than on land. Greater dampness has
something to do with it, but imagination probably plays its part. There is
something in the very look of a winter sea, yeasty under the north wind
and filled with snowy floes and icebergs, that seems to congeal the marrow
in one's bones. In the cold snaps, when a big wave curled over the bows,
I have seen it break and strike upon the deck in the form of hundreds of
ice pellets. Almost every day when it was rough, the old Arctic played
marbles with us.
What with the mists, the cold rains, the sleets and snows and flying
spray, the brig was soon a mass of ice. The sides became encased in a
white armor of ice which at the bows was several feet thick. We frequently
had to knock it off. The decks were sheeted with ice, the masts and spars
were glazed with it, the shrouds, stays, and every rope were coated with
ice, and the yard-arms and foot-ropes were hung with ice stalactites. One
of the most beautiful sights I ever saw was the whaling fleet when we fell
in with it one cold, gray morning. The frost had laid its white witchery
upon the other ships as it had upon the brig, and they glided through the
black seas, pallid, shimmering, and phantom-like in their ice armor--an
armada of ghostly _Flying Dutchmen_.
The brig was constantly wearing and tacking on the whaling grounds and
there was considerable work to be done aloft. By the captain's orders, we
did such work with our mittens off. Hauling bare-handed on ropes of solid
ice was painful labor, and "Belay all!" often came like a benediction
to souls in torment. Then we had much ado whipping our hands against
our sides to restore the circulation. After Big Foot Louis had frozen a
finger, the captain permitted us to keep our mittens on.
Work aloft under such conditions was dangerous. Our walrus-hide boots were
heelless and extremely slippery and our footing on the foot-ropes was
precarious. We had to depend as much upon our hands as upon our feet to
keep from falling when strung out for reefing along the topsail yard. Many
were the slips and hair-breadth escapes. It seems now, on looking back on
it, almost miraculous that some of us green hands did not tumble to our
death.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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