About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, TimgadThomas-Stanford, Charles
History
About Algeria: Algiers, Tlemçen, Constantine, Biskra, Timgad
Thomas-Stanford, Charles
Algeria -- Description and travel
It is said that the plateau on which Constantine stands is honeycombed
with caves and subterranean passages, and that formerly it was possible
to walk round the city underground. Probably these caves were excavated
by the river before it had carved out its present bed at a lower level.
These great natural storehouses were used in troublous times for the
keeping of provisions and munitions of war; and during the French attack
of 1837 many of the inhabitants took refuge in them. They are now for
the most part bricked up, but a very remarkable grotto lies beneath the
Hôtel de Paris, and may be visited from the hotel.
There is a museum at the Mairie. It is, as Mr. Lucas found the Soane
Museum in Lincoln’s Inn Fields, very difficult to get into; and it is
still more difficult to get out of, especially if you are a sympathetic
listener. The good lady whose place is in the porter’s lodge, and who
has the key, will, when at leisure, conduct you to a long room
containing the usual assortment of battered coins and broken pottery,
and one gem, a bronze statuette of Victory, found beneath the Kasbeh.
When you are sufficiently depressed by the antiquities, your guide has
something in store for you. She will show you—you only, you are given to
understand; it is an exception;—the marble staircase and the saloon in
which the Mayor receives. And very fine the marble columns and marble
panels are, and you will notice how here a butterfly with long tails is
faithfully depicted in their rich grain, and there the head of an old
Arab to the very life. And if you will have the goodness to look out of
window, you will see a house on the hill opposite, and just beyond it on
the other side is the quarry from which all these marbles come. And in
all Algeria there is no such a Mairie as this. And you may be led to
discuss systems of local government, and to mention that you yourself,
who speak, take some small share in such matters, if only as a member of
an Education Committee, or a County Council, or what-not. And you will
perhaps be pained to discover that the very name of your important
county town is unknown to your entertainer; a pain to be mitigated later
by the reflection that the caretaker of its Town Hall is perhaps not
fully informed as to Constantine. And the _pièce de résistance_ comes
last. You shall see the _salon_ in which the Mayor conducts the
marriages. And very suitable and dignified it is. Has your Mayor so fine
a marrying-place? You are constrained to confess that as far as you are
aware your Mayor has nothing to do with any marriages but his own. A
quick look as at an impostor detected, a shrug of the shoulders, and a
sigh for the barbarous condition of foreign countries, and it is over.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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