Abroad at Home: American Ramblings, Observations, and Adventures of Julian StreetStreet, Julian
General
Abroad at Home: American Ramblings, Observations, and Adventures of Julian Street
Street, Julian
United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
For a "soulless corporation" the Pacific Telephone and Telegraph Company
has shown a good deal of imagination in constructing and equipping its
Chinatown exchange. The building with its gaily decorated pagoda roof
and balconies, makes a colorful spot in the center of Chinatown. Inside
it is elaborately frescoed with dragons and other Chinese designs, while
the woodwork is of ebony and gold. The switchboard is carved and is set
in a shrine, and this fascinating incongruity, with the operators, all
dressed in the richly colored silk costumes of their ancient
civilization, poking in plugs, pulling them out, chattering now in
English, now in Chinese, teaches one that anachronism may, under some
conditions, be altogether charming.
* * * * *
One rumor concerning San Francisco restaurants appealed to my sinful
literary imaginings. I had heard that these establishments resembled
those of Paris, not only in cuisine, but because, as in Paris, the
proprietors did not deem it necessary to stipulate that private
diningrooms should never be occupied save by parties of more than two.
Of one of these restaurants, in particular, I had been told the most
amazing tales: A taxi would drive into the building by a sort of tunnel;
great doors would close instantly behind it; it would run onto a large
elevator and be taken bodily to some floor above, where the occupants
would alight practically at the door of their clandestine
meeting-place--an exquisite little apartment, decorated like the boudoir
of some royal favorite. If it were indeed true that such a picturesquely
shocking place existed, I intended--entirely in the interest of my
readers, you will understand--to see it; and honesty forces me to add
that I hoped, with journalistic immorality, that it did exist.
One night I went there. True, the conditions were somewhat prosaic. It
was quite late; my companion and I were tired, but we were near the end
of our stay in San Francisco, and I insisted upon his accompanying me to
the mysterious café, although he protested violently--not on moral
grounds, but because he is sufficiently sophisticated to know that there
is no subject upon which exaggeration gives itself _carte blanche_ as it
does when describing gilded vice.
The taxi did drive in through a kind of tunnel--a place suggesting coal
wagons--but there were no massive, silent doors to close behind it.
Passing into an inner court, which was like an empty garage, it stopped
beside a little door.
"Where is the elevator?" I asked the taxi driver.
"In there," he answered, indicating the door.
"But," I complained, "I heard that there was a big elevator here, that
took taxis right up stairs."
"There ain't," he said, succinctly.
Telling him to wait, we entered the door and came upon an elevator and a
solitary waiter, whom we informed of our desire to see the place.
Obligingly he took us to an upper floor and opening the door of an
apartment, showed us in.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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