Abroad at Home: American Ramblings, Observations, and Adventures of Julian StreetStreet, Julian
General
Abroad at Home: American Ramblings, Observations, and Adventures of Julian Street
Street, Julian
United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
I had always fancied that an unbroken flight across the continent would
prove fatiguing and seem very, very long, but however others may have
found it, it seemed short to me.
Looking back over the run from the Pacific Coast to Chicago I feel as
though it had consumed but a night and one long, interesting day--a day
full of changing scenes and episodes. The three things I remember best
about the journey are the beauty of the Bad Lands, the wonderful squab
guinea chicken I had, one night, for dinner, in the dining car, and the
pretty girl with the demure expression and the mischievous blue eyes,
who, before coming aboard at a little western station, kissed a handsome
young cattleman good-by, and who, having later made friends with a gay
young blade upon the train, kissed him good-by, also, when they parted
on the platform in Chicago.
Railroad travel in the West does not seem so machine-like as in the
East. That is true in many ways. West of Chicago you do not feel that
your train is sandwiched in between two other trains, one just ahead,
the other just behind. You run for a long time without passing another
train, and when you do pass one, it is something in the nature of an
event, like passing another ship, at sea. So, also, on the train, the
relations between passengers and crew are not merely mechanical. You
feel that the conductor is a human being, and that the dining-car
conductor is distinctly a nice fellow.
But once you pass Chicago, going east, the individuality of train
officials ceases to be felt. They become automatons, very efficient, but
cold as cogs in a machine. As for you, you are a unit, to be transported
and fed, and they do transport and feed you, doing it all impartially
and impersonally, performing their duties with the most rigid decorum,
and the most cold-blooded correctness.
Even the food in the dining-car seems to be standardized. The dishes
look differently, and vary mildly in flavor, but there is one taste
running through everything, as though the whole meal were made from some
basic substance, colored and flavored in different ways, to create a
variety of courses. The great primary taste of eastern dining-car food
is, as nearly as I can hit on it, that of wet paper. The oysters seem to
be made of slippery wet paper with oyster-flavor added. The soup is a
sort of creamy essence of manilla. The chicken is damp paper, ground up,
soaked with chicken-extract, and pressed into the form of a deceased
bird. And, above all, the salad is green tissue-paper, soaked in
vinegar and water.
[Illustration: New York--Everyone is in a hurry. Everyone is dodging
everyone else. Everyone is trying to keep his knees from being knocked
by swift-passing suitcases]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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