Abroad at Home: American Ramblings, Observations, and Adventures of Julian StreetStreet, Julian
General
Abroad at Home: American Ramblings, Observations, and Adventures of Julian Street
Street, Julian
United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
The manners of the pigs on their way to execution held me with a horrid
fascination. Pigs look so much alike that we assume them to be minus
individuality. That is not so. The French Revolution--of which the
stockyards reminded Dr. George Brandes, the literary critic, who
recently visited this country--scarcely could have brought out in its
victims a wider range of characteristics than these pigs show. I have
often noticed, of course, that some people are like pigs, but I had
never before suspected that all pigs are so very much like people. Some
of them come in yelling with fright. Others are silent. They shift about
nervously, and sniff, as though scenting death. "It's the steam they
smell," said a man in overalls beside me. Well, perhaps it is. But I
could smell death there, and I still think the pigs can smell it, too.
Some of the pigs lean against each other for companionship in their
distress. Others merely wait with bowed heads, giving a curious effect
of porcine resignation. When they feel the tug of the chain, and are
dragged backward, some of them set up a new and frightful squealing;
others go in silence, and with a sort of dignity, like martyrs dying for
a cause.
As I stood there, studying the temperament of pigs, I saw the butcher
looking up at me as he wiped his long, thin blade. He was a rawboned
Slav with a pale face, high cheek bones, and large brown eyes, holding
within their somber depths an expression of thoughtful, dreamy
abstraction. I have never seen such eyes. Without prejudice or pity they
seemed to look alike on man and pig. Being upon the platform above him,
right side up, and free to go when I should please, I felt safe for the
moment. But suppose I were not so--suppose I were to come along to him,
hanging by one leg from the trolley--what would he do then? Would he
stop to ask why they had sent another sort of animal, I wondered? Or
would he do his work impartially?
I should not wish to take the chance.
The progress of the pig is swift--if the transition from pig to pork may
be termed "progress." The carcass travels presently through boiling
water, and emerges pink and clean. And as it goes along upon its
trolley, it passes one man after another, each with an active knife,
until, thirty minutes later, when it has undergone the government
inspection, it is headless and in halves--mere meat, which looks as
though it never could have been alive.
From the slaughter-house we passed through the smoke-house, where ham
and bacon were smoking over hardwood fires in rows of ovens big as
blocks of houses. Then through the pickling room with its enormous
hogs-heads, giving the appearance of a monkish wine cellar. Then
through the curing room with its countless piles of dry salt pork,
neatly arranged like giant bricks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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