Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific CoastRusling, James Fowler
History
Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific Coast
Rusling, James Fowler
Overland journeys to the Pacific; Pacific States -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
At several points, however, we observed the bluffs abounded in slate
shales, and other coal-bearing earths; and as we suspected then,
the Union Pacific Railroad has already developed a vast deposit
of coal there. Bitter Creek itself flowed sluggishly by us for a
day or so, and was a little miserable stream, that just managed to
crawl--usually at the bottom of a deep gulch or abrupt cañon--its
chalky color proclaiming its alkali taint even before you tasted
it. We must have followed it for a hundred miles or more, and yet
it continued very nearly the same in size throughout. What water it
drained in one locality was largely evaporated in another, and its
wretched, villanous character made it everywhere an eye-sore, instead
of a pleasing feature in the landscape as it should have been. But
enough of Bitter Creek, and its God-forsaken region.
Past Green river, here a considerable stream, we entered the Butte
region, and one evening just before sunset approached Church Butte,
the most famous of them all. It was too late in the day to explore
it, but we had a grand view of it in the shifting sunlight, as we
drove slowly by. On the box with the driver, a portion of it was
pointed out, that resembled a colossal Dutchman, about lifting to his
mouth a foaming beaker. Further on, as we rolled westward, the Teuton
faded out, and the church-like character of the Butte more fully
appeared. Seen from the west, it presents a very wonderful likeness
to an old-time cathedral, of the Gothic type, and at a distance
might well be taken for the crumbling ruins of some such edifice,
though of cyclopean proportions. Porch, nave, dome, caryatides,
fluted columns, bas-reliefs, broken roof and capitals--all are there
in shapes more or less perfect, and the illusion was very striking
in the shadowy twilight. The Butte itself, like most others there,
is a vast mass of sandstone, covered with tenacious blue clay, both
of which are being constantly chiseled down by wind and rain. These
buttes all seemed either to have been upheaved from the dead level
around them, or else to be the surviving portions of great mountain
chains, from which the earth has been washed or blown away, leaving
their skeletons--so to speak--behind in solitary grandeur. The latter
theory seemed more probable, judging by the general direction of the
buttes themselves. Much of the scenery about here for a hundred miles
or so, was enlivened by sandstone bluffs, cut and chiseled by the
elements into castles, fortresses, etc., that frowned majestically at
us in the distance; but we were only too glad to quit their grandeur
and sublimity, that turned only to barren rocks as we approached,
and to hail some signs of cultivation again as we neared Fort
Bridger. No doubt the wind has been an important agency in fashioning
all these, though scarcely to the extent that is claimed by some
travellers. In Bowles' "_Across the Continent_," he tells a story
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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