Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific CoastRusling, James Fowler
History
Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific Coast
Rusling, James Fowler
Overland journeys to the Pacific; Pacific States -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
right road to civilization again. This portage had formerly been
made by pack-mules, and then by wagons; but recently a railroad had
been constructed, after much hard blasting and costly wall-work,
and now "Riding on a rail," there, with the Columbia boiling and
roaring at your side, like the Rapids above Niagara, was exhilarating
and superb. At very high water, these "chutes" or rapids somewhat
disappear, though they still continue very dangerous. No attempt
had been made to ascend them with a steamer; but the spring before,
Capt. Stump had safely descended them, much against his will. It
was high water in the Columbia, with a strong current, and his boat
drifting near the rapids was suddenly sucked in, before he knew it.
Clearly, escape was impossible; so he put on all steam, to give her
steerage-way, and then headed down stream--neck or nothing. There
was a good deal of bumping and thumping--it was a toss and a plunge,
for awhile--and everybody he feared was pretty badly scared; but his
gallant little boat ran the rapids for all that, and reached still
water below safely at last. It was a daring feat, and worthy of this
brave Oregonian. Just now, the Columbia was very low, rocks and reefs
showing all through the rapids--among, around, and over which the
waters boiled and rushed like a mill-race.
The locomotive carried us to the Dalles, at the foot of the Rapids,
a town of some two thousand inhabitants, with a maturer civilization
than any we had seen since leaving Salt lake. It was but five or
six years old; yet it was already in its decrepitude. A "rush" of
miners a few years before, to alleged fine "diggings" near there,
had suddenly elevated it from an obscure landing into quite a town;
but the mines did not justify their promise, and the Dalles was now
at a stand-still, if not something worse. "Mining stock" and "corner
lots" had gone down by the run, during the past year or two, and her
few merchants sat by their doors watching for customers in vain.
The enterprise of the town, however, deserved a better fate. At the
Umatilla House they gave us an excellent supper, at a moderate price,
and the hotel itself would have been a credit to a much larger town
anywhere. The mines on John Day River, and other dependencies of the
Dalles, had formerly yielded $2,000,000 per year, and Congress had
then voted a U. S. Mint there. We could but sincerely hope it would
be much needed, some day or other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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