Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific CoastRusling, James Fowler
History
Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific Coast
Rusling, James Fowler
Overland journeys to the Pacific; Pacific States -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Past the Cascade Mountains, we came suddenly out into a new region,
and a totally different climate. From Umatilla to the Mountains we
had the same clear atmosphere and perfect sky, that we had found
everywhere from the Plains to the Columbia, substantially. The
country naturally was the same barren and sterile region as at Salt
Lake, abounding only in sage-brush and grease-wood; and, indeed, the
whole internal basin of the continent, from the Rocky Mountains to
the Sierra Nevadas, and from British America down to Mexico, appeared
to be of this same general character--from want of regular rains
in summer. Over most of this vast region, there had been no rains
for weeks, or indeed months; and for days together as we journeyed
along, we had never seen a cloud or mist even, to mar the absolute
ultramarine of those perfect skies. But now, in descending the
Columbia, as we approached the Mountains, we descried the clouds on
their western slope ever trying to float over, but never apparently
succeeding, their white discs gleaming in the sun; and when we
drew nearer, we beheld a fleecy mist drifting up the Columbia, and
streaming eastward like a pennon. Nearer still, we encountered a
stiff breeze sweeping through the cañon, as through a funnel; and
when we got well down into the jaws of the gorge, it needed all our
steam, as well as the strong westward current to carry us forward.
Sometimes, it was said, the Columbia just here becomes so rough,
because of this conflicting wind and current, as to cause real
sea-sickness on the boats, and occasionally indeed they have to cast
anchor, unable to descend. Farther down, this mist thickened into
rain, and when we got fairly through and out of the Mountains, (it
raining most of the way), we debouched into the Coast Region, where
it was still raining steadily, as it had been for many days, and
continued to for weeks together afterwards. As soon as we struck the
rain, trees and herbage at once made their appearance, clothing the
mountains and bottoms everywhere; lichens and mosses again decorated
all the rocks; and when we got well out of the Mountains, behold
such forests of fir, pine, cedar, oak, etc., as never appear East.
In half a day, you may thus pass from a comparatively rainless to a
thoroughly rainy region; and in winter from a severely cold, to a
comparatively moderate climate. The contrast is very striking, and
you soon feel it keenly in every sense. Your eyes glaze, your skin
becomes moist, and if there is a weak spot about your lungs, you will
find it out very quickly. The proximity of the Pacific, of course,
explains it all--the warm, humid winds from which sweep up against
the Cascade Range, but find in their lofty crest an insurmountable
barrier. If light enough to ascend, their wealth of moisture is
condensed as rain or snow along the mountain sides or summit, by the
cold of the upper regions, as with your hand you squeeze a sponge;
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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