Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific CoastRusling, James Fowler
History
Across America; Or, The Great West and the Pacific Coast
Rusling, James Fowler
Overland journeys to the Pacific; Pacific States -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Æsculapius at that, bravely protested, that sea-sickness was "Only a
matter of the imagination. Anyone can overcome it. It only requires
a vigorous exercise of the will." But, unfortunately for his theory,
soon afterwards he himself became the sickest person on board, not
excepting the ladies. My own experience ended with a qualm or two;
but the majority of our passengers suffered very much, for several
days. Our steamer really had accommodations for only about one
hundred passengers; but some four hundred had crowded aboard of her
at Portland, mostly miners eager to get "below" to winter, and those
who had no state-rooms now "roughed it" pitiably. They lay around
loose--on deck, in the cabin, in the gang-way, everywhere--the most
disconsolate-looking fellows I ever saw, outside of a yellow-fever
hospital. The few ladies aboard were even sicker; but these all had
state-rooms, and kept them mostly for the voyage.
The weather continued raw and the sea rough, most of the way down
the coast, and our voyage of eight hundred miles from Portland to
San Francisco, as a whole, could hardly be called agreeable. We
had fog, and rain, and head-winds all the way down, and with the
exception of a day or two, it was really cold and uncomfortable.
The steam-heating apparatus of the vessel was out of order, and
the only place for us all to warm was at a register in the Social
Hall--a narrow little cabin on deck, that would not accommodate
over thirty persons at the farthest. There was a similar place for
the ladies, but they usually filled this themselves. Groups huddled
here all day, smoking and talking, and when the weather permitted
also swarmed about the smoke-stacks. And then, besides, as already
stated, our ship was badly overcrowded. Of our 400 passengers, less
than a quarter had state-rooms, and the rest were left to shift for
themselves. After the sea-sickness began to abate, we filled two or
three tables every meal; and when bed-time came, mattrasses thronged
the cabin from end to end. How it was down in the steerage, where the
miners and Chinamen mostly congregated, one need not care to imagine.
Fortunately great-coats and blankets abounded, or many would have
suffered much. We found many choice spirits aboard, and in spite of
wind and weather enjoyed ourselves, after all, very fairly. When it
did not rain too hard, we walked the deck and talked for hours; and
when everything else failed, we always found something of interest in
the gulls that followed us by hundreds, and the great frigate-birds
with their outstretched pinions, and the ever-rolling boundless sea.
Our table-fare was always profuse and generally excellent, especially
the Oregon apples and pears they gave us for dessert; and had it not
been for our broken heating apparatus, no doubt we would have got
along very satisfactorily after all, all things considered.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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