Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
Gaelic about some one of the name of _Powl_, whom I at last divined to be
the apostle to the Gentiles; a large congregation of the Lews men very
devoutly listening; and on the outskirts of the crowd, some of the town’s
children (to whom the whole affair was Greek and Hebrew) profanely
playing tigg. The same descent, the same country, the same narrow sect
of the same religion, and all these bonds made very largely nugatory by
an accidental difference of dialect!
Into the bay of Wick stretched the dark length of the unfinished
breakwater, in its cage of open staging; the travellers (like frames of
churches) over-plumbing all; and away at the extreme end, the divers
toiling unseen on the foundation. On a platform of loose planks, the
assistants turned their air-mills; a stone might be swinging between wind
and water; underneath the swell ran gaily; and from time to time, a
mailed dragon with a window-glass snout came dripping up the ladder.
Youth is a blessed season after all; my stay at Wick was in the year of
_Voces Fidelium_ and the rose-leaf room at Bailie Brown’s; and already I
did not care two straws for literary glory. Posthumous ambition perhaps
requires an atmosphere of roses; and the more rugged excitant of Wick
east winds had made another boy of me. To go down in the diving-dress,
that was my absorbing fancy; and with the countenance of a certain
handsome scamp of a diver, Bob Bain by name, I gratified the whim.
It was gray, harsh, easterly weather, the swell ran pretty high, and out
in the open there were “skipper’s daughters,” when I found myself at last
on the diver’s platform, twenty pounds of lead upon each foot and my
whole person swollen with ply and ply of woollen underclothing. One
moment, the salt wind was whistling round my night-capped head; the next,
I was crushed almost double under the weight of the helmet. As that
intolerable burthern was laid upon me, I could have found it in my heart
(only for shame’s sake) to cry off from the whole enterprise. But it was
too late. The attendants began to turn the hurdy-gurdy, and the air to
whistle through the tube; some one screwed in the barred window of the
vizor; and I was cut off in a moment from my fellow-men; standing there
in their midst, but quite divorced from intercourse: a creature deaf and
dumb, pathetically looking forth upon them from a climate of his own.
Except that I could move and feel, I was like a man fallen in a
catalepsy. But time was scarce given me to realise my isolation; the
weights were hung upon my back and breast, the signal rope was thrust
into my unresisting hand; and setting a twenty-pound foot upon the
ladder, I began ponderously to descend.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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