At seven o'clock on the morning of the 13th of June, I started to visit Madu, the chief of the Motu Lavao. We went up from the bight, a large saltwater creek, with dense mangrove on both banks,--a veritable bed of fever,--and anchoring our boats, we walked through the deserted village of Paitana and on for about a mile and a half to Motu Lavao. The path leads along a narrow tract of good country, with dense swamps on both sides. The village is large, with good houses kept nice and clean; but I can conceive of no more unhealthy locality--swamp all around. A number of people were down with fever, some in their houses, others lying exposed to the sun. I asked them if they had no _vatavata_ (spirits) knocking around in their district, and did they not much trouble them. "Oh, trouble us much, very much." I told them I thought so, and the sooner they removed from that place the better--that they were right in the centre of sickness and death. They said, "And what is to become of the place of our forefathers, and the cocoanuts they planted?" "Better leave them, or in a short time there will be none left to remember their forefathers, or eat their cocoanuts." Madu was in the country, and we waited his return. He tried hard to get me to stay over-night, but it was of no use. He presented me with a pig and feathers, and we concluded friendship by my giving a return present. An old woman was presented to me, a great sorceress; but, not liking the sisterhood, I did not see my way clear to give her a present. Such as she keep the natives in constant fear, do what they like, and get what they like. It is affirmed by all that the great Lolo sorcerer, Arua, keeps snakes in bamboos, and uses them for his nefarious purposes. Late in the afternoon we left, accompanied by Madu and a number of youths carrying pig, cocoanuts, and sugar-cane. When leaving, the chief said, "Go, Tamate; we are friends."