Next morning we started down the steep slopes into the Valley of
Heaven. This was a very dangerous descent for the wagons, so that it
was after midday before we reached the floor of the valley. The poor
donkeys were completely exhausted, and we camped there until next day.
The Valley of Heaven was certainly living up to its name. It was never
so lovely, and my companions were enthusiastic in its praise. I
pointed out to them the Place of Execution and Sheba's Breasts as we
came down the mountain, and they immediately decided they would visit
both before returning to Ermelo.
Although I remember the beauties of the Valley of Heaven as though it
were yesterday, still the difficulties that befell us there made me at
that time regard it as the "Valley of Hell." We had come down about
two thousand feet and the climate was hot, moist, and uncomfortable.
Our energy was sapped, the donkeys were worn out, and our kaffir boys
were lazy beyond all use.
The trail ahead consisted of a succession of low hills cut by little
streams. Many of the inclines were steep, and I estimated that we
would be lucky if we made five or six miles a day. It was practically
impossible to judge distance, and this led me into error. I had picked
out a camping spot seemingly about six miles away, and Sugden and I
started to walk to it. The grass was six feet high in most places and
full of deadly snakes. Few of the little streams were fit to drink,
and the farther we walked the farther the chosen spot seemed to
recede. Finally we saw a fair-sized stream which we thought was two
miles away, but which turned out to be nearer four. When we reached it
we drank, after straining the water through our handkerchiefs. We were
very hot and uncomfortable, and were made supremely unhappy by the
realization that the wagon could not reach us for at least two days.
There was nothing to do but go back, and we finally reached the outfit
at sunset. The donkeys were completely exhausted, so we camped right
there. I realized that for the last thirty miles before reaching the
royal kraal at Zombode we would be lucky if we made three or four
miles a day.
Because of this experience I changed our trek time. Instead of trying
to make it in daylight, we did most of our traveling by dark. This
helped a little, but we failed to make more than a mile every two
hours, even when the going was good. To add to the misery of the trek,
the mosquitoes tormented us continually. However, these pests
introduced a little comedy into our suffering, for my companions would
recall the mosquitoes of New Jersey, U. S. A. and compare them with
those of South Africa.
Crespinell summed up the comparison when he said:
"For brutality and ruthlessness these 'skeeters take the biscuit, but
the New Jersey breed have got 'em skinned a mile when it comes to
technique!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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