I arranged for another doctor to handle my patients while I was away
and then set about making preparations for the trip. News of my
venture soon got about, and I was deluged with requests to take
friends along. If I had given in to them all, I would have invaded
Swaziland with an impi. As it was, I took Laurie Snyman, a cousin of
mine, and Joel Biddy, the accountant of the little bank in Ermelo.
Snyman had some years before been postmaster at Mbabane, the
government seat of Swaziland, while Biddy had been a useful friend on
many occasions.
We had some interesting adventures on the trip, but suffered intensely
from the weather. Heavy storms dogged us all the way and made life
miserable. We traveled light, but the rains prevented us making good
time. Our outfit consisted of a wagonette, drawn by mules, in which we
had intended to ride. Sibijaan was our cook and general handy man,
while the mules and wagonette were in charge of Tuis, a half-breed
Basuto bushman.
The rains made the roads so heavy that it was all the mules could do
to drag the wagonette. Hence we had to walk practically the entire
way, and it was "foot-slogging" of the hardest. Tuis was a very
obstinate kaffir and made a nuisance of himself on every opportunity.
If we had not needed him so badly, I would have either killed him or
sent him back.
One of the features of the trip was the fact that both Sibijaan and
Tuis were constantly ill. That is, they said they were. The only
medicine which seemed to help them was gin, and they would frequently
feign illness to get some. Now and then I would refuse, and then Tuis
would give an exhibition of sulking that was wonderful. Of course it
is strictly against the law to give alcohol to kaffirs in the
Transvaal, but the fact that it was administered as "muti," or
medicine, made the act less criminal. Those boys of mine, however,
needed "muti" frequently, but the rain was a sort of justification,
for I know that we white men were only able to keep going by using it.
On the second day out of Ermelo we ran into the Scottish section of
our country. The little villages there have such names as Lochiel and
New Scotland, and the people are quite as Scottish as these names. In
fact, we were able to get some oat cakes at one of the farm-houses.
These would have been rusks, had the people been Boers.
Although our trek had been miserable enough so far, we did not have
any real trouble until we reached the Masuto River. It was swollen by
the heavy rains and the ford was washed out. Instead of the usual
clear rivulet, it had become a raging torrent of muddy water. We had
to cross it or go back, so we made camp on its bank and held a council
of war. All our blankets and supplies were soaked through, and a fire
could not be started. We were just about as uncomfortable as we could
be.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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