Then he began to plan with me how to get our business over as quickly
as possible. I had not been to Swaziland since my youth, and things
were different now. Instead of our being met by a welcoming party of
indunas, only a few curious savages and a horde of children came out
to watch us arrive. The former proud formality of the royal kraal
seemed lacking, and when I asked Tuys about it he explained that since
Queen Labotsibeni had become blind "the old customs had gone to seed."
There was still one formality about seeing her, however. This
consisted of announcing your presence by sending her a bottle of gin
and then waiting until she sent for you. Tuys explained to me that the
old queen was terribly vain and desired, above all things, to be
flattered. She liked to pretend that she could still see, and Tuys
warned me under no circumstances to admit that I thought she could not.
"You want to look out for Lomwazi, my boy," he added. "He has more
brains than all the rest put together and is a very wily devil. He
never leaves the side of the old queen, and she can't say a word that
he doesn't hear. Look out for him!"
He also advised me to keep my eye on Debeseembie, a brother of Lomwazi
and the favorite son of the old queen. Debeseembie was another
faithful watchdog of the royal hut and was always somewhere around.
This was the first time I had seen Labotsibeni since I was a little
boy, hence I was keenly interested in her apart from the fact that I
hoped to obtain her permission to take pictures of Sebuza's
coronation. It is well to observe here that I use the word
"coronation" for lack of a better term. The Swazi king wears no crown,
and I suppose the right but awkward phrase would be to speak of
Sebuza's "induction as king."
Lomwazi came out to meet us as we entered the royal kraal and readily
agreed to convey the gin-present to his royal mistress. When I slipped
him a bottle for himself, his haughty expression immediately became
one of joy. A little gin goes a long way with the Swazis.
In a very short time he returned and said that the queen would see us.
In addition to the present sent ahead when an interview is desired
with the queen, it is also proper etiquette to leave a present when
the interview is over. Knowing this, I took along a present--that is,
another bottle of gin.
Now the royal kraal at Zombode was built with a little kraal inside
the main one, and in the middle of that was Labotsibeni's reception
hall or audience chamber. This was the most unusual building in
Swaziland. It had brick walls about four feet high and was about ten
by fifteen feet in size. The arched grass roof was about head high in
the middle, but one had to stoop low to enter, because the three
openings were only the height of the brick wall. No one has ever
explained how these bricks came to Zombode. There are no bricks in
Swaziland and it struck me as extraordinary that I should see them
there.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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