A new fit seized me; I became gloomy, and fled from the city to wander
among the ruins of Queen Joanna’s palace: a place rendered terrible to
the superstitious fishermen by the tales of horror connected with it.
From thence I wandered as far as that dreaded valley the Forum Vulcani;
a spot filled with fabled terrors from time immemorial, and shunned by
the vulgar of Naples. The superstition is that it is haunted by fiends
and spirits, who toil and shriek through caverns of fire, watching that
hidden gold, which (by day) the wretched lazzaroni have sought for
centuries. At times the ground is covered with burning sulphur, and
rent with chasms belching forth pitchy smoke, flames, or boiling water;
which the fabled giants who are buried there vomit up from hell.
Petrius Damianus supposes that purgatory lies beneath it, and tells of
frightful noises, groans, and shrieks, issuing from clefts in the rocks;
whereon sat monstrous shapes of birds and men, who, on the croaking of a
gigantic raven, plunged headlong into the chasms, and appeared no more,
at least not for many days.
At night, when viewed by the light of a setting moon or the flame of
Vesuvius, the Forum Vulcani, with only its natural terrors, is gloomy
enough: hemmed in by rocks of basalt, from the clefts of which the
burning bitumen flashes forth at times, or white steam curls on the
breeze—the ground thick with sulphur, and trembling with the throes of
the mighty volcano in the distance, it has horrors enough for ordinary
men; but that night it had none for me, and I startled the echoes of its
rocks with my cries of "Despina!"
I again found myself beneath the convent walls of Spirito Santo, just as
the city clocks were telling midnight; I was alone, and a strange
thought occurred to me. I tore down a lamp, and demolishing a wooden
railing, poured oil on the painted pales, and piling them against the
door, set them on fire, laughing, and shouting "Despina!" as I fanned
the flames with my hat; and when the blaze increased apace, I folded my
arms within my mantle, and watched its rapid progress with the most
intense satisfaction. Aim or object I had none: I was _mad!_—and yet I
can remember the whole like some wild dream. The forked tongues of
flame shot upward, and licked the wooden balconies and projecting eaves
of the old convent, which was likely to be soon enveloped in fire. Its
magnificent oratory, with columns of jasper and dome of marble—its
shrines, tombs, and relics—the miraculous crucifix which spoke to Thomas
Aquinas, the true cross, the Virgin’s petticoat, and Heaven knows what
more—now stood in greater peril than ever they did during the outrages
of the mad fisherman of Amalfi.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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